DLA

I purchased a Telaire 8001 used for $50.00. Only thing was it was missing the communicating cable from the monitor to the PC. Not really needed, unless you want to use it right. I spent 3 days and other peoples time learning this device. I hope this helps some people here.

UIP8000 (P/N 2072) also called PC RS-232 Port which is a modified RJ45 to a db9 cable. They charge you $60.00 for this cable and you must buy the software with it(a package deal only).

I have made my own ($25.00) so I could go greater distances from my computer to control my Telaire 8001 Co2 Monitor. That way when I check on Co2 the room is remaining in it's closed, sealed state. I believe I get better readings.

Parts:
1- RJ45 cable the length you need it with 2 RJ45 male ends. **If you are good at attaching your own RJ45 ends then get the cable and 1 RJ45 male end. If you purchase one be sure both ends are male. Because the foll lowing part only excepts male as does the Telaire 8001.


1- RJ45/DB9M MODULAR ADAPTER

** If you make your own you don't need the adapter, just a db9 end, male or female to marry to your PC serial port.
This is just a picture to help understand the male and female db9, and their numbering.


Tools:
Needle nose pliers.
Soldering iron ( I use the cold heat type they work great)
Wire strippers.
Good eyes, glasses, or/and a magnifying glass.

Your computer must have a serial port available. It defaults to com port 1 (through it's own software UIP8000) but can be totally configured to any available com port.

OK here's what you do. Because this is a 232 cable it means there are wiring modifications between the RJ45 and the db9 that when attached to a standard PC serial port you can then control, monitor, adjust, or what ever the software is written to do to your device. The cable used for the Telaire is very easy to make and use.

The connections your trying to get are these

DB9 2, RJ45 2(2 from the left with tab positioned on top)
DB9 3, RJ45 1
DB9 5, RJ45 3

The second picture of the small adapter has a female RJ45 jack on the back side you can see but it's there.(It's all good)

The front is where you make the 232 change to the db9 so it swaps commands from a standard RJ45 lead.

You must determine absolutely which wires are which by color from the RJ adapter. In other words which wire color would be the number 1 from the RJ45 if plugged in. It's hard to see in there and a piece of paper and a pencil help for notes but a continuity tester helps a lot. Once you have determined which wires from the RJ female plug on the adapter correspond with the RJ45 it's all down hill. Now take the 1,2,and3 wires you found on the adapter that corresponds to the RJ45 plug and solder the little pins to them...it's real easy. Forget about all the other wires 4 thru 8, just don't leave any wire exposed when reassembled. Now look at the picture of the db9 male or female, you must determine which you bought so it would connect to your PCs serial port. Look at that first before you buy the adapter looking at male or female. Now take those first 1,2,and3 wires you clipped and soldered the pins to and plug then in the corresponding holes per the connections above.

Special Note
The UIP8000 program each purchaser should have received a copy (probably an old version) I have Version Uip8000\050824::050921(the newest Ver.). I was Emailed a copy from Telaire. They know I bought mine used and still uphold all agreements. Since I have a copy of the newest Version, if anyone would like it please IM me and I will post it on my FTP site. I don;t think I'm breaking any rules as it was Emailed to me from Telaire with no disclaimer or restrictions.


I know hardly anyone will ever need this but what it has shown me is that these are easily modified and almost made for that. I don't have a LED readout on the sensor but it shows on my computer...now I know how to wire a small LED readout to it and have it right there too. I can now make it text me, alarm, turn thing on and off, control complete Co2 room with it.

I just learned a lot about what money can be saved.

By the way Telaire didn't know how to fix it...I did and they asked for a list of what I did.

__________________

Sometimes people say things they immediately regret, but then later are glad they said it.
Sometimes people never say anything for fear of being judged.
Sometimes people talk all the time and we never hear a word they say.
Sometimes people speak only when spoken to and are always heard by one.
90% of our communication is unspoken.

afterburner

I just plugged mine in and it worked

DLA

But can you walk into 3 other rooms with it....

__________________

Sometimes people say things they immediately regret, but then later are glad they said it.
Sometimes people never say anything for fear of being judged.
Sometimes people talk all the time and we never hear a word they say.
Sometimes people speak only when spoken to and are always heard by one.
90% of our communication is unspoken.

bobbooty

cool.

added to collection of DIY thread.

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afterburner

what do you mean? Monitor it from the computer? Ya i attached a 50 ft ethernet cable to mine

DLA

OK OK OK I am going to check my neighbors now be back later they live a mile away and I don't want the cable getting all tangled....

__________________

Sometimes people say things they immediately regret, but then later are glad they said it.
Sometimes people never say anything for fear of being judged.
Sometimes people talk all the time and we never hear a word they say.
Sometimes people speak only when spoken to and are always heard by one.
90% of our communication is unspoken.

DLA

OK this is another DIY post on the Telaire ppm Monitors. As a note all C.A.P. Co2 Controller/Sensors are Telaire just look at the cover for the buttons where it is molded in to the plastic cover..."Telaire". I believe after days of investigation that the Telaire Controllers are used by many companies just a name change. The guts are identical. I have now taken 2 different brands (Telaire and C.A.P. PPM-3 Co2 controller) and found that every model is the same except for the enhancements we all pay for with the different models. I have already shown how to make a
communications cable for using your computer to control and monitor these controllers.

Today I will show you how to make the basic model 8000 or 8001 into any of them The C.A.P. PPM-1c, PPM-3. I will also let you in on a secret regarding the LCD screens that some models have and some models don't.

First lets turn a Telaire Model 8001 in to a C.A.P. Model PPM-1c which is a ppm controller that will turn your C.A.P. Co2-2, Co2-4, and the CGC-1 into ppm monitors with no need for timers anymore. If your wondering what the differences are just go to any Hydro website and read about each different model and see what you want yours to do.

1. Carefully remove the sensor. It may be connected to a wall plate or other attachment device. If not installed yet go to #2..like you had a choice...
2. Now remove the screw covering the plate that shields the buttons and/or LCD screen.
3. Remove the 4 screws from the rear and carefully pull apart. You will be met with an IC board with buttons. Now for those of you with models that have no up/down adjustment switch...weeeee....look it's right there.......hm...Oh a cheap piece of thick plastic on the front of the monitor cover kept you from seeing and using that.


Just info right for right now you can leave it and the cheap plastic alone.
4. Now look at the back cover where the wires go through from the wall plug(the wall plate or whichever attachment body it has) and you'll see 2 sets of pin blocks, 1 has 2 pins(24VAC power) the other has 8 pins. Each has a description of their connective properties. If you have the basic model 8000 or 80001 there are 2 wires connected to the pin block with 2 pins. DC power 24VDC.
5. It's these pins that we will be working with for these changes.

Intermission

This thread is the results of my being able to buy a used Telaire Model 8001 for $50.00 and I know and see them out there all the time for sale very cheap. Also I don't believe many people realize that just because it says Telaire on it that it's different then or less then a C.A.P. product or many of the other companies that use these for their own. When I got mine the guy mentioned it could be modified, and that's all I needed to hear, so on with the post...OK this is where you will have to make something, because no company known to man will sell you these as they are all proprietary and made, shipped, repaired and distributed by GE Sensing and it took me 3 days before I was able to find a tech that spent 2 more days on the phone with me hinting to possibilities and the facts that I will never be able to buy these parts. But make them is another story.

And as a last note my sensor with all that I have done now would cost new over $600.00, I did the whole thing for under $100.00 including the monitor

Making a PPM-1c using the supplied Quick Disconnect
7. To make a Model PPM-1c you will need to make or modify your Quick Disconnect. That is the plug that plugs in to the side of the Environmental Controller.
7a. You have two choices here you can use the existing Quick Disconnect plug that came with it(it's that short plug that plugs in the side and must be in place on the Environmental Controllers for them to work), or you can make one. I made one because I needed to do it learning how the whole barrel of monkeys worked.
7b. Using the original Quick disconnect. Pull it off your Environmental Controller. Now notice those holes that look like they do something (like maybe let air pass through for measurement?) Well it's only a jumper and the holes are fake.
7c. See where the round meets the square on the plug. You will need to carefully cut this round knob part off(I used cutters and slowly sliced mine like a meat slicer would, a 1/16 inch at a time until I realized the wire loop is at the junction of the round and square). When you do you will be met with one wire that loops back in to the plug.
7d. Now cut the little loop so that you now have 2 separate wires coming out. be sure there is no loose strands to short out between the 2 wires or anywhere else. (By the way this is all low voltage so your chances of getting a shock are little to none, and nothing is plugged in).
7e. Now use a piece of insulated wire (I used 16/3 gauge and did away with the green wire, actually an old computer power cord by cutting both ends off) and solder the 2 wires from one end to the 2 coming from the Quick Disconnect plug you cut. (Remember to get some heat shrink to cover all you work).
7f. Now connect the other ends of these 2 wire to pins 4 and 5 on the 8 pin block, #4 is Relay Common, #5 is Relay Norm Closed.
Reassemble your unit and plug the new modified Quick Disconnect the your Environmental Controller.
7g. Now set your ppm set up like you did previously for your ppm model(or get instruction off the Internet of the new model you made and your old), using new set points and highs and lows when your Co2 drops below your hysteresis or goes above your required Co2ppm your Environmental Controller will turn on and off your Co2 generator or tank solenoid as need to maintain the ppm as set within the set points. No more timers needed.

Making a Quick Disconnect from scratch(In my opinion easier and better. Plus you keep your old Quick Disconnect.

8. The part is very hard to find but very easy to make.
8a. Or buy one here.
8b. Making one is easy, all old power supplies(the ones where you could plug a monitor into the computer for power) for computer have one. And there used to be these adaptors that you could plug your regular monitor plug into it and then plug that in to the computer for powering the monitor too. (sorta). Using the power supply choice look on the back of the old power supply and remove the matching piece(hint it is the one where you Can see the pins/metal tangs). Just cut all the wires attached to it and throw the old Power Supply away (recycle).
8c. Now on average(everyone I have ever taken apart) the wires are actually connected with crimp clips slid on, if yours is like that pull them off the Quick Disconnect. If soldered then I hope you can solder. Sorry.
You will have to shape this with a Dremmel Tool or file. Remove all the flange so that you end up with a trapezoid shape clean to the original shape. Test it by plugging it in to the Environmental Controller Quick Disconnect plug, it should slide in and out easy.
8d. Solder 2 wires 16-18 gauge to the 2 pins on the top that line up(again I used an old computer power cord 16/3 and removed the green wire. Some computer power cords do not have the basic Black, White and Green wires. Some have other colors, just be sure to use 2 of the same color).
8e. Now go to 7f and follow the directions from there. You have now built your own Quick Disconnect cord, you can not buy these through any sensor/controller suppliers.

Making a PPM-3 (Piggyback Model)
This is the one that is quoted to be the most cost effective of all the PPM models. I disagree only because of design. But if you do not have an Environmental Controller, then this is the one for you. Get a used Telaire or a new 8001 model do what I'm about to describe and you'll have a complete Co2 Controller based on PPM. A new Telaire Model 8001 basic is $179.10, the C.A.P. PPM-3 is average $450.00 this mod will give you a new PPM-3 if you buy a new Telaire 8001 and follow these steps for $200.00 that's new. Get a used one and add $15.00 to the price because that's all this mod costs.
9. Follow steps 1 thru 5.
We are going to make a modified Piggyback cord for this. A Piggyback cord is the type that you plug in to the wall and on the back is a plug to plug another item right back in to, but it then has a wire coming out the side that leads to another female receptacle to add yet another device. We're building a similar piggyback but it has some mods. I imagine this can be done many ways, but I will describe one and then you can adjust as desired.
9a. First you need standard household male and female plugs set and a piece of wire long enough to reach whatever your controlling (110VAC) (tank, Generator, but this is used more for tanks.) to where your sensor will be mounted.
9b. Cut 12" off your wire and attach the plugs to the ends.(short extension cord).
9c. In the middle of this short cord slice down the covering careful not to cut in to the wires until you can see and get a hold of the white wire. Work it out as much as you can.
9d. Now cut the white wire in the middle and strip the ends. Take the remainder of the wire you got and strip the 2 wires on that end and solder The wire to the white wire ends.
9e. Connect the 2 wires at the other end to pins #4 and #5. Plug your 110VAC item in the female end.
9f. Now set up you sensor.

So there you have it. If I made any mistakes let me know I spent about 6 hours on this post with pics and all so I'm sorta cross-eyed right now.

HTH

Oh for the secret about the LCD monitors? Any of you that do any of these mods will see it. Otherwise It will be in my next Telaire DIY.

It's late Good Night and Sweet Dreams.

__________________

Sometimes people say things they immediately regret, but then later are glad they said it.
Sometimes people never say anything for fear of being judged.
Sometimes people talk all the time and we never hear a word they say.
Sometimes people speak only when spoken to and are always heard by one.
90% of our communication is unspoken.

afterburner

Umm, dude those relays on the teleair only can handle 24volts DC and 2 amps! Your gonna fuse together your contacts if you plug that sucker into a 115v AC source. Unless I missed something here did you add an additional relay switch or what You need another relay switch to control a 115v device!

DLA

I'm sorry your wrong. There is never more then the 24 VDC ever traveling through.

AB, we not only know it works we made these and tested each one. I was aware of what your bring up but the Quick Disconnect it uses has is nothing more then a jumper and the small relay handles it correctly. Please understand these modification are not to the actual sensor but merely the additions that companies charge you a mint for when in reality if you have any model you can add those other nuances and additions for next to nothing. We are simple making the devices they attach to the models you buy, we reversed engineered each one.

They work fine

Also AB no where did I ever say to plug the unit into the wall plug. I clearly pointed out the 24VDC power supply on the 2 pin block. The Quick Disconnect that plugs into the Environmental Controller handle 14 VDC from there to open the relay when asked.

As for the piggyback, you are not plugging 110 in to the wall to the sensor. You are separating the the neutral (white) which only carries feedback at best but no voltage, but most important no amps.( AB, you are right to have a concern here. I should not say "white wire"...I should say the neutral side of the wall plug.) even when the relay trips the 110 piggyback female is powered only because the neutral closed, still no high voltage though. I wasn't willing to try that mod until my son came over (he is an electronic engineer that specializes in automation and pneumatics), because I was sure it was to much. But then he explained it to me , made one, I closed my eyes when he plugged it in but low and behold when we made adjustments to the ppm levels in the setup it worked perfectly lighting up our test light (tank solenoid/whatever) and shutting down when it reaches it's set point.

I hope that clears it up some. If not though please let me know so I can give better descriptions or clarity. I really didn't want to get into the technical part at all because I thought the post was to long already and I spent when done over 9 hours seating up, taking everything apart again to photo, and then try to explain in my terrible language...

__________________

Sometimes people say things they immediately regret, but then later are glad they said it.
Sometimes people never say anything for fear of being judged.
Sometimes people talk all the time and we never hear a word they say.
Sometimes people speak only when spoken to and are always heard by one.
90% of our communication is unspoken.

DLA

OK I had mentioned I would get around to the LCD Module some come with and some don't.

They are all wired already for a LCD module. They are not the easiest thing to find but their out there. The basic model is at this link.

LCD Module

But they won't sell to you.

So Google LCD modules using this number 8020 or 8002 and you will find all sorts.

Here's another place.

They range in price from $.99 to $20.00 ea.

If you now look at your IC board or the picture in my other post that shows the hidden up/down button you will see a 2 by 7 black block where 14 pins can plug in. Get one of these modules, solder a 14 pin block to it...the holes and everything you need are there...plug it in turn on your controller and boom you now have a digital readout of you PPM and the power to modify all the setting right at the unit.

Oh the universal number for the module is "HD44780 controller 4/8 bit"


In place and working fine




The End

__________________

Sometimes people say things they immediately regret, but then later are glad they said it.
Sometimes people never say anything for fear of being judged.
Sometimes people talk all the time and we never hear a word they say.
Sometimes people speak only when spoken to and are always heard by one.
90% of our communication is unspoken.