WW+SOG

I read that you don't want to put a breaker that is too big to trip if something goes wrong, i.e., a light that pulls 9amps will never trip a 30amp breaker, if something shorts in your light, it will burn up before tripping the breaker - try 1 - 15amp breaker per light, and depending on the amps pulled by the other appliances adjust the size breaker for each. TV and laptop won't pull much amps anyway to go ahead and put a bank of outlets on one 20amp breaker, but be careful not to plug in a fan or light to those outlets. Be safe. I got this info from one of two books, "indoor marij horticulture" by Jorge or the one by g. greene, can't remember which book, lol.

p.s. max amps used is stamped on all electrical appliances and fans.

sek311

Per code a 60amp breaker can only operate at 48 amp for any duration longer than 3 hours of constant feed. This is the 20% rule. Some things to consider is on your AC check your LRA and RLA on the data plate, while demand surge is only momentary if a circuit is close max load and if the unit short cycles you may trip the circuit. Size your breakers to your spec but remember to use the 125% of max rule on the wiring. Don't go all out and then put a 14g wire on a 20amp breaker.

A amp meter and a line splitter is a great tool to find the true demand of a appliance. Electrical conversion equations are great tools but anyone in the field will tell you that every appliance is different. example, your 1000w ballast may require more or less amps than spec due to tons of variables. I agree with others that copper is not cheap and pulling #6 wire is a lot easier. Make sure all your wiring is safe, use proper grounding and moisture protection. Make sure to make a earth ground by your panel if you step up to a 100amp panel and remember if you go with a 60 amp homerun the extra money for a correctly sized ground may save your life.

Indiegurl

Listen, you don't "adjust the size of your breaker to what kind of appliance you are running"

Breaker size goes hand in hand with wire gauge.

15 amp breaker, 14 gauge wire.
20 amp breaker, 12 gauge wire
30 amp breaker, 10 gauge wire
40 amp breaker, 8 gauge wire

If your breaker is tripping when you run an appliance and you simply put in a larger breaker, this is one of the most dangerous things you can do. People do it all the time with their air conditioners. Many air conditioners will trip a 15 amp breaker especially if something else is run on the same circuit. DO NOT EVER put a breaker or fuse in that is larger than it is supposed to be. These things are designed this way for a reason. If what you are running is tripping your breaker it means the wire cannot handle the load being put on it. "adjusting your breaker size" is going to put more heat on that wire than it is designed to handle, thus creating a serious risk of fire.

To the guy with the shed:
I'm an electrician. I would put a 60 amp or 100 amp panel (depending on what you need, which you figure out by doing some simple math) and use 12 gauge wire with 20 amp breakers for your lights. The laptops and whatnot can be on 14 gauge wire/15 amp breaker no problem. 1000 watt lights will run on 15 amp breaker no problem (i am currently doing this myself since its whats already there... for now...) but 12 gauge wire is a much better option when wiring your shit from scratch.

Pesci

I want plenty of expansion room and absolutely no issues with pulling high wattage. I always go with larger gauge wires and some elbow room in all electrical wiring I do, from home to car stereo's.

I also like the luxury of being able to isolate my high watt items on their own breaker. It gives me a cleaner flow and I also know when it's time to expand, I have plenty of juice there for another flower or grow/clone room.

You don't have to go as large as I did, but it's far safer to tap directly from the main line to get your power correctly and safely rather than over loading an already strained wire/outlet.

If you have the choice, a direct wire is always safer and more efficient.

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WW+SOG

{QUOTE}If your breaker is tripping when you run an appliance and you simply put in a larger breaker, this is one of the most dangerous things you can do. People do it all the time with their air conditioners. Many air conditioners will trip a 15 amp breaker especially if something else is run on the same circuit. DO NOT EVER put a breaker or fuse in that is larger than it is supposed to be. These things are designed this way for a reason. If what you are running is tripping your breaker it means the wire cannot handle the load being put on it. "adjusting your breaker size" is going to put more heat on that wire than it is designed to handle, thus creating a serious risk of fire. {ENDQUOTE}

I'm sorry if someone misunderstood me
What I actually meant to say is what I think you said, its just that you didn't think I said what I thought I said......

I was thinking that you could read how many amps an appliance is rated for from the mfr's info - then size the breaker and wire gauge depending on the max amps listed on the appliance - I did not mean to run the appliance on a breaker that is too big to trip - Im sorry for the confusion, I gotta quit watching progressives on TV, they must be affecting my communication skills what with all that doublespeak........

Indiegurl

ahh good to know you're on the right page

Pesci

Yes, that is correct.

You must up the wire gauge per the breaker size.

That is why I went ahead and direct wired my shedd rather than screwing with smaller gauage wires and a small 10 amp breaker that I use in each room.

Use a nice gauage wire. It may even be helpful for you to go up a gauage size if you can afford it and if you think you may need to up your breaker size in the future.

__________________
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Posting Guidelines
"The only way to end Prohibition is to break the relationship between Capitalism and the Criminal Justice System"--me
"Follow the WIERDNESS"-me
"Don't dwell on reality, it will only keep you from greatness"-unknown
"A new scientific truth does not triumph by convincing opponents and making them see the light. But rather because its opponents eventually die, and a new generation grows up that is familiar with it"-Max Planck, Scientific Autobiography
"Unattainability - The Most Intense JOY lies Not in the Having, but in the Desire. Delight that never fades, Bliss that is Eternal, is only yours when that you Desire Most is just Out of Reach”-C.S.Lewis
" The Lord loves a workin' man; don't trust whitey; see a doctor and get rid of it.

Indiegurl

Yes it is correct. It should be. It is my day job

Batting1000

After the main 60 or 100 amp panel, wire ALL the circuits with 12 gauge and 20 amp circuits. Especially if the walls are open. No reason not to. Then if an A/C units using 15 amps, you can still use that circuit for small fans or pumps or something. Dont restrict yourself simply by buying the cheap shit.

I suggest a 30 amp timer box for the lights. Turns em all on and off at the same time and will also run 15 amps of stuff on the same timer
.30 Amp Timer Box

this will also allow you to run the ballasts at 4.5 amps, not the normal 9 or 10