arnold layne

that comment was made in reference to an earlier post i made which has since been edited because i thought i was perhaps being a bit of an a**hole..
anyway, i was referring to the amount of work that goes into flushing a 280 gal box to keep a 5-6lb plant from tasting bad.
i was being corrected for not properly stating that i was flushing the medium to let the plant starve.
i referred to it as "flushing small trees".
and, true enough, when i grew hydro and switched to straight h2o, i'd say i was flushing my plants.

oops.


my point was, i think mg tastes bad, and so do many others i know.
i suppose that might be said for any chem fert.
like as if i were using gh flora in my hydro setup, and just took the plant straight from 1100ppm to my drying room.

maybe the medium can be flushed well enough and long enough so that the plant will taste ok after harvest.

i have tried chem vs organic, side x side, plants grown from the clones of the very same momma. same soil, same methods, different ferts.
i could most certainly tell a difference.

so, yeah, i was the one who made a ref to flushing one's plants.
i do stand corrected.




peace-
arnold layne

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FreedomRider

My mom's garden is awesome and she uses MG Garden Soil.

As for MJ friendly. I've never had any problems using MG potting soil.

ILLEGAL-SEED

i got some flowers in used promix, some same in miracle grow...pro mix is killing. lol

Luke Highwalker

the scotts soil in a green n white bag is pretty decent. i have used it in a pinch several times, and a buddy of mine uses it almost exclusively. it does however have an endless supply of gnats in it.

you want good soil {like promix or FFOF } but dont wanna spend the money?

well here ya go.

5 parts Premiere Sphagnum Peat moss {6 bucks 2 cubic feet, 9 bucks 3.8 cubic feet)
3 Parts Perlite
2 Parts Compost/humus earth worm castings are best but expensive. any compost or source of humus will work. .
1 cup powdered lime per cubic foot.

all the above stuff is available at lowes, the powdered lime is the hardest to find. again lowes has it for 2 bucks for 40lbs.

add one cup of pulverized dolomite lime for every cubic foot of mix, or 1 tablespoon per gallon. i mix this soil in 5 gallon buckets. 5 gallons of peat, 2 gallons compost 3 gallons perlite and 1.5 cups of lime. 3.8 cubic feet of peat is about 65 gallons of the stuff.

This is a good, light soil. the peat is from the makers of pro-mix. basically the same stuff, but without the mycor inoculation.

The above recipe will fill about 10 5gallon buckets for around 15 bucks.

i can give you a nice organic food recipe too, that is made from all store bought products..no hydro stores needed. you just brew the tea for a day or two and water away. no PH pen needed.

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Treadwell

LUKE.. the old guy across the street here uses a VERY similar mix for his vegetable gardens every year.

Ill attest that it does work pretty good.

I cant say its identical as far as mix proportions but its the same basic ingredients.

Im still goin with the pro-mix or somthin cuz im too lazy to toss all the shit together.

If i had a cement mixer to do the work for me id deffinately do it that way.. lol but im gonna buy the prefab stuff to save the headache..

Good post though, for those that dont have the $$$ or the resources to buy somthin else.

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BCGuerillaGrowa

BCGuerillaGrowa

you are entitled not to think it is radioactive. But in fact everything has an amount of radioactivity . even
people have varying levels of radioactivity.

Rock Phophate is a natural form of phosphorus for plants yet it contains
levels of uranium which is considered to be highly radioactive element.

Miracle grow is very high in uranium making it very high in radioactivity. It's
also high in other toxic elements like Arsenic. Plants grown with this
will contain higher levels of Uranium and Arsenic. Its a proven scientific fact.

National Newsletter of the Mulch & Soil Council - June 2005

Uranium Contaminated Soils and Crops




Its just my preference not to use bomb making materials as plant food
but knock yourself out.

Treadwell

Not too much of a concern here..

I used to be an Nuclear Biological Chemical decon and disposal worker for the army... lol

Our training consisted of playing around with radiac meters in contaminated areas.

My grass cant be half that bad..

( side note.. i dont dissagree with you GUERILLA, just not to worried for my own well being is all )

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2009 OUTDOOR - failed lunar grow

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cancer_patient1

This is prolly a dumb question, but WTH..

When you want to flush out your plants really well on the last week or so of its life and get it ready for harvest, couldnt you just..

1.Remove it from the pot ...Rootball,soil and all just as you would do before transplant..
2. Shake off all "loose" soil , gently "squeezing" or using your hands to help loosen the soil from around the delicate rootmass.
3.Spray off the rootmass gentltly using a the sprayer from your kitchen sink using low low water pressure ( so as not to damage the roots ) or use your bathtub faucet or shower etc on low pressure etc.
4. After the rinse, submerge the rootmass in a bucket/container etc of clean water to remove any other soil etc left on the roots.
5.Finally, after getting the roots sparkly clean, place the plants into a bucket or container etc ( roots in the water only.. not the entire plant.. There are several methods of doing this.. Just like in a hydro setup, but no need for being that particular in design.. Just afix the stem to the side of the bucket inside so that the roots are in the water and the plant is sitting out of the water ) of clean water and let it stay there for the final week to clean itself out of all the "chemicals" etc.

I would prolly change the water every day or so to ensure there is still enough "air" in the water.. Unless you have an airstone or something to get the water airated...Im not sure if it would be needed or not, but I would think that the
"air" in the water would deplete really fast if not changed daily.

Iunno if that would even work at all, but it "seems" like it would be a good idea.Im pretty sure that I could get all the soil etc off of the rootmass of a plant using that method above without damaging the roots to the point it would harm them too badly for the last week or so of its life.My thinking is that getting the roots into pure H20 for the last week or maybe even 2 would make the plant taste/smell and burn better than one that was just "flushed".. I wish someone would do an "experiment" on this lol.

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Treadwell

Its possible to do that with alot of work C.P.

I gotta think that it might be a little wasted effort though.

Soil in containers, with a plant in it (especially one that is having gallons of water dumped through it) is gonna deplete itself of its available nutrients and chemicals pretty fast anyhow.

If your pouring tons of clean H2O through there along with the plant itself feeding of what little is still in there, i dont see the need.

Your gonna leach most of those chems out anyway.

__________________
If a pot plant grows in the woods, and no one is around to smell it, does it make a scent?

2009 OUTDOOR - failed lunar grow

BREEDING AUTOS - hempy style