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| Public Enemy ![]() Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: In a shoe
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I have a really old grape vine outside and it has only flowered once in like 5 years. This year it didnt flower at all. Does anyone know anything about grapevines, who might be able to give me some tips? The soil is pretty crappy though. That might be a good place to begin. | ||
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| buckethead jefe ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2004 Location: over the hill
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I don't know much, but I know you need to cut them way back for them to develop new branches every year. They grow all around me and sometime in the spring (might be in the winter), folks chop the old branches off leaving little more than a stump. They weed the soil pretty well to.... then they leave them alone pretty much til harvesting. Again, I only observe, I have no real experience. milagro
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I never feed them anything, not many weeds around. | |||
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| | #4 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Don't be afraid to remove a lot of the old growth on a grape vine. Grapes bloom on new growth so pruning will encourage new shoots to appear. Prune in late winter/early spring. Pruning grapes. ![]() | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | i had alot of grapevines which were already growing on my land when i moved in and they really can get out of control if you dont look after them, eg pruning and training. first harvest they became infested with spiders...white tails i guess it depends on your location but the white tails are a problem here and they loved the vines. they're bite leaves an infection which rots your flesh away, it can become dormant and then pop up again years later...id post a pic of a bite victim but you might be eating ![]() needless to say i dont have grape vines anymore ...sorry, got a bit off topic there...i hate spiders!!! | ||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to komet For This Useful Post: | mSeTxOiNcEaRn (11-16-2006) |
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![]() ![]() | Are the grapres trained? If not you build a trellis and run the main vine up the trellis type you use . Trim all but the main vine for the first year. make sure you have only one main vine, cut any secondary viens that may be growing from the base. The next year you will select your best side branches and trim all off but those side growths you want to train on to your trellis. after the third year it is just maintaing the shape and size by aggressive pruning. Since you said it is an old growth vine you will have to trim it drasticly for the trellis. If it is already on a trellis just trim back to your main and side growth branches to fit the trellis. Save long cuttings and dry them for anyone you know who does arts and crafts as they can make some nice dreamcatchers.Good luck .
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Look for my dreamcatchers on ebay next fall I really appreciate all the help my friends ![]() Thank you. | ||||||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mSeTxOiNcEaRn For This Useful Post: | Sinsemillian (12-14-2006) |
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![]() | Not to repeat anything, as everyone covered the pruning issues, training, etc and I glad to see that (prof. horticulturalist and viticulture enthusiast). One thing that I would like to add is the fertilizer, cover crop and fungicide history of the plant. No matter how old the grape vine is, you will need to make sure the plant takes up enough nutrient for foliage production, then apply the phosphorous and potassium to the flower production ending in the fruit production. What is your feeding regiment, and what type-organic or conventional? Another real important factor for proctecting the next years crop is applying a dormant fungicide when the plant is dormant and defoliated. A great spray, if not used already, is a Copper sulfate or Copper based fungicide. This prevents any spore or mold buildup on the bark of the plant, thus helping the new growth sprout without the worry of a continual contact from the plants own bark system. Copper based fungicides are relatively safe for the enviroment, and do not take away from the plant, or add to any problems when training or harvesting begins. Again, Copper based fungicides are directed as a dormant type of fungicide, and can even be used when you have a foot or growth or below. Another trick to help further along the plants nutrient uptake is to grow a small plot of cover crop. A cover crop consists of either legumes, clovers, annual and perennial grasses, and other beneficial plants. This collection, sometimes only consisted of 2 varieties, help provide a good tilth to the soil, as well as fixing nitrogen(clover does this very well) from the air to the ground. This process will add in a well balanced nutrient measurement within the soil, as well as creating a beneficial insect and organism farm beneath the soil line. Just some tips to help even the smallest hobbyist...
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I been thinking about growing grapes indoors along my growroom walls. Since I always have a grow going I thought I would try to grow some grapes on the walls. lmao. I smoke alot of pot so if this idea sounds dumb let me know. If it sounds doable then let me know because its been on my mind for a few months now. I am going to do some research and see if it can be done. If anyone has any experience in this area please let me know.Regards, Sinse. P.S. I am serious about this. ![]()
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![]() | Growing grapes indoors will not work. This will enable the plant to not have the elements rotate the plants seasons, thus sinking the plant in dormancy for the winter, and active growing and fruiting in SPring and Summer. Constant vegetative growth and a controlled climate will result in a very low yield in fruit, and harboring a population of insect and disease. I would not offer the idea to do this, as a disaster and a waste of money, time, and resources will be the only outcome. Choose something else that does not need a group of things to readily grow healthy and productive.
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