rick

http://www.hempcultivation.com/GrowFAQ

Due to the loss of one of the most valuable resources to our Marijuana Cultivators available on the Internet, The Overgrow.Com GrowFAQ, I've decided to create a place where all the Marijuana communities can come together to rebuild that fantastic resource. In my opinion, it's simply unacceptable to lose such a library of information without at least trying to rebuild it.

You will find that you are able to submit new FAQ's anonyously. Simply choose the appropriate category and write it up. I've fashioned the GrowFAQ after the Overgrow.Com GrowFAQ and have dedicated it to OG as well. We'll have an admin look at your faq submission and so long as the information isn't incorrect we'lll include it in the new GrowFAQ.

If you have a Commonly Asked Question that YOU would like to see in the new GrowFAQ, please submit the question! Any member at all can answer a submitted question and have that added to the new GrowFAQ.

I'll be delegating administrationships to those that prove themselves to be capable of doing what has to be done, rebuilding. If you are interested in helping to administrate this new GrowFAQ, please email webmaster@marijuana.com so we can get this information back online as quickly as possible.

One more thing...This faq shall never be cluttered with advertisments. You will not find any advertising in the new GrowFaq as it is my intention to make this shrine for the lost OG GrowFaq.

We will use more technology and enable more users and devices to access our growFAQ. While we are attempting to recreate a lost resource, it is not our intention to duplicate it - it simply cant be done.

Thanks for your cooperation and email me at webmaster@marijuana.com or PM me with any questions.

~r

http://www.hempcultivation.com/GrowFAQ

bluebloodletter

Right On, RICK.... I can already predict a few members who would love to use this as a great oppurtunity to clear up misconceptions and help to cultivate cultivators. Way to bounce..


Would it be too much to humbly request a strain guide, too? We must have at least a hundred strains journaled here already that could be included

bobbooty

please add:

hash & oil category

i would also say please add security category too, but i understand its a "grow" faq.

__________________

Welcome to gardenscure.com. Growing marijuana in the United States is a federal offence. Aquisition of live cannabis seeds is illegal in the United States. The Garden's Cure Posting Guidelines can be found here.The Acceptable Use Policy can be found here. The grow guide can be found here. My SoG growroom can be seen in my journal. want to learn more about medical marijuana in the US? check out the Americans For Safe Access site here. and MediCann here.

rick

please add a faq!

rick

Ok, here's the deal...We can rebuild that GrowFaq, I think we just need some motivation... So, I got a couple things I want to throw in the wind here.

1. Anyone who submits 5 or more completed and accepted FAQ's to the new GrowFaq will get a one year subscription to the 'Chronic Users' group. This is a standing offer, when you have five completed, just let me know and I'll repay your hard work with a $50, one year membership.

2. Anyone who submits 15 or more completed and accept FAQ's to the enw GrowFaq gets a lifetime subscription - a $100 value - for their time and effort.

I'll be improving and adding to the GrowFAQ thoughout the weekend so please check back often to see how you can contibute!

Thanks!
~r

un_Love

here's a starting line for all you industrious young h@ckers....

here is google's cached copy of the growfaq index page. more can be found by googling things you find on the front page and clicking "Cached" to get whatever info is still in google's enormous mind.

google.....good for something, eh?

p.s. a leeching prog would probably serve you well, if you can find a root.

__________________
un_Love

if electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?

un_Love

found the answer, so i might as well share.

go to the previously referenced front page of the cached growfaq, click a link, copy the dead link outta your address bar, and google it. below the result, you'll find an option to view the cached copy. for example, here's "Slowhand's Oasis cubes in soil, cloning method" verbatim:

Added by: 10k Last edited by: 10k Viewed: 361 times Rated by 38 users: 9.60/10
Contributed by: Slowhand

Having struggled mightily with cloning for quite a while, I have settled on a method that works 100% (so far) for me. This is ONLY for soil growing, there are a lot of ways to clone for hydroponics but this is not one. This simple and reliable cloning method is for all you newbie or just unlucky cloners, and it does not require any close supervision.
If you are having cloning problems, please try it like this:

The "key" to my problem was my great difficulty to get roots before damp off problems, etc. Oasis recommends that the cubes be sat in shallow nute solution and left there. I found that was far too wet for oxygen hungry MJ. To "buffer" the cube, we shall use regular soil mix that is kept moist, rather than standing in water. This will allow much more oxygen to the rooting area.

Lets get started:
Start with standard 3" seedling pots (I prefer the very thin and flexible breeders pots found in large flats), some Oasis cubes, and a sharp box cutter or knife.

Have your soil mix prepared and ready.
I use:
60% Scotts seedling starter mix
15% worm castings
10% vermiculite
10% perlite
5% lava sand






Good drainage:
Using the knife, cut all four corners out of the pots, the provided drain holes are NOT enough.
MJ does not like "wet feet".





Plant the Oasis cube:
Now dig a hole in the pre-moistened soil mix deep enough to bury an Oasis cube nearly all the way in. You should finish with something like this...





Prepare the cloning solution:
Now we should prepare our cloning solution. I use Olivia's Cloning solution and gel, per instructions; it works quite well. Start by mixing 3 tablespoons of the cloning solution (large bottle) with 1 quart of pH adjusted water (anywhere between pH 6 and pH 7 is good). Add one teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide (3% solution) to the mix to "supercharge" it. Set some of the solution in a separate container in the refrigerator to chill.





Prepare the cuts:
Now to the mum chamber to select a cut. Show is an Aussie Bush female mum. I should have trimmed the prospective cut YESTERDAY and given it a day to "heal and recuperate" before final removal. I'll cheat for the sake of continuity. Let's try the left secondary.





Like I said, this part should have been done 24 hrs ago..
Also, for you "mummers" out there, you can see that I have ruined the left secondary as a future clone site. By removing the first (lowest) node as well as the clone (it's for science!), I have effectively killed the left secondary. Leave that first node alone!





Take the cutting(s):
Now take the cut at a 45 degree angle, and pop it directly into the slightly chilled solution. Let it soak and uptake solution for 10 to 20 minutes. Please note the exacto-knife and the alcohol wipe, remember, this is an OPERATION! Wash your hands carefully and sterilize the cutting blade after EACH cut. Also, a new blade is recommended for every cloning session.





Re-cut the clone and place it in a small amount of the cloning gel. Let it soak and uptake gel for 10 minutes or so. *PLEASE NOTE* DO NOT dip the cut into the whole bottle. Any viruses or other nasties you may have on the cut WILL contaminate the entire bottle and thus ruin all future cuts you try to make from that bottle.

Finally, roll the cut around in the gel to thoroughly coat the outside of the stem for an inch or so; try to "pick-up" as much of the gel as you can with the stem as you transfer the cut to the Oasis cube you have prepared.





Inserting the cuts:
After "stabbing" the cut slightly down (about 1/2") into the bottom of the hole in the cube, slightly pinch the side of the cube to "close" the hole around the stem. Gently, gently please! Now, irrigate the entire pot thoroughly with cloning solution until it runs out the bottom.

She is now ready to go into the cloning domes. As you can see, I use two clear plastic tubs to form one dome assembly. They are not airtight, but we don't want that anyway.





The mum & cloning chamber enjoys year round temperatures between 74 and 76 degrees, just about exactly perfect. Above 80, fungus and rot become bigger problems. Below 70, and the clone just "stalls" and takes FOREVER if it makes it at all. Be SURE to remove the domes at least once (twice is better) every day for a few minutes to allow "new" air in. Mist slightly every time and water only with cloning solution when the dirt is starting to dry a bit or the clone starts to wilt.

Lighting:
Clones have a limited energy "budget", only what they "contain" the instant they are cut. Almost all of that energy is needed just to establish good rooting. Strong light forces photosynthesis, thus food production, transpiration and other process not needed for rooting. For this reason, lighting should be kept quite soft and diffuse until the clones fully root. When using fluoros, keep the tubes about 6" to a foot above the top of the domes. With HID lighting, stay well back, 3 to 5 feet or more (depending on wattage of the light) and shade the dome from the intense HID lighting. I like to use a white paper towel on top of the domes to further diffuse and soften the light. Clones need VERY little light until they root. Just insure they are getting at least 18 hours of light each day and 24/7 is ok too.

Hardening off: (getting them used to being without the dome)
After about a week, start leaving the dome off for a few minutes longer each day. Monitor the clones carefully and replace the dome after misting if they start to wilt. DO NOT forget that you have the dome off. A young batch WILL wilt severely and might die if not caught in time. After several "hardening" sessions, the domes may be left off all together (as long as there is NO wilting). There she is on the lower right...





Special Technique: Trimming fan leaves.
In this example, the clones shown are Crystal Light x AK47 (unsexed).
The fans were trimmed prior to setting them in the cubes because they were already quite large and lush when the cuts were taken, experience will tell you when you have "too much" leaf surface and the clone will just wilt and resist efforts to revive it. So, trim the big stuff before "stabbing it". If it remains "wilty" remove the largest trimmed fans completely, this usually does it for stubborn ones. You can even then trim the smaller fans if you REALLY are trying to save a "special" clone.





Tip 1: When are they starting to root?
Please compare this picture with the picture, 2nd above. Please note that now all of the clones pictured (except our "new" AB clone) have leaves that are strong and turning upward, as compared to the previous photo when they were all "wilty". This is a sure sign that the clones have started rooting, you will also see new growth starting form the grow tips. The 5 older clones in the photo are now ready to be "hardened off" gradually, and finally removed from the cloning chamber and placed in full vegetative mode. Also, please note the grid wire at the bottom of the tub. It works great to keep the planters out of the water.





Tip 2: Humidity control under the dome
This is a good idea for you folks that are too busy to keep an eye on things a least twice a day. Just put an air stone in some water in a container inside the dome as shown. The humidity will be kept at a nice level and you will not need to mist the clones at all. Please notice the wire mesh is still used to keep the planters out of any standing water; in this case, the whole thing is set on a couple of bricks inside the tub.





Here we see the "humidifier tub" in action. After just a few minutes, the humidity is 75% and the temp is 78 degress f. I will try to reduce that "inside" temp to a steady 75 or 76 degrees. Please note that the white lid for the tub is serving as a perfect light blocker/diffuser.





Final Tip and Credit: Oldtimer1's ezine articles on cloning and bonsai mums!
Taking cuttings from old mums is "the way" to duplicate great results. Once you find the magic mum, you just grow out her cuttings for more of the same great smoke. It is far beyond the scope of this article to go into mums, but let me expound the excellence of OldTimer1's article on cloning and making mums.

Last modified: 09:54 - May 06, 2001


now GO FORTH and rescue the growfaq. tell em un_Love sent cha.

__________________
un_Love

if electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?

un_Love

and here is "What are trichomes? Trichome 101"

Added by: 10k Last edited by: 10k Viewed: 768 times Rated by 247 users: 9.65/10
Contributed by: Snaps_provolone
Submitted June 18, 2003

What are Trichomes?




capitate stalked trichome photo by: Eirik


Although cannabis resin glands called trichomes are structurally diverse, they come in three basic varieties:


Bulbous:
The bulbous type is the smallest (15-30 micron). From one to four cells make up the "foot" and "stalk," and one to four cells make up the "head" of the gland. Head cells secrete a resin - presumably cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the head cells and the cuticle. When the gland matures, a nipple-like protrusion may form on the membrane from the pressure of the accumulating resin. The bulbous glands are found scattered about the surfaces of the above-ground plant parts.


Capitate-Sessile:
The second type of gland is much larger & is more numerous than the bulbous glands. They are called capitate, which means having a globular-shaped head. On immature plants, the heads lie flush, appearing not to have a stalk and are called capitate sessile. They actually have a stalk that is one cell high, although it may not be visible beneath the globular head. The head is composed of usually eight, but up to 16 cells, that form a convex rosette. These cells secrete cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the rosette and it's outer membrane. This gives it a spherical shape. The gland measures from 25 to 100 micron across.


Capitate-Stalked:
Cannabinoids are most abundant in the capitate-stalked gland which consists of a tier of secretory disc cells subtending a large non-cellular secretory cavity. During flowering the capitate glands that appear on the newly formed plant parts take on a third form. Some of the glands are raised to a height of 150 to 500 micron when their stalks elongate. These capitate-stalked glands appear during flowering and form their densest cover on the female flower bracts. They are also highly concentrated on the small leaves that accompany the flowers. The male flowers have stalked glands on the sepals, but they are smaller and less concentrated than on the female bracts. Male flowers form a row of very large capitate glands along the opposite sides of anthers.






photo by: Proof_of_the_pudding






photo by: Proof_of_the_pudding

The figures above denote capitate-stalked trichomes with green arrows, the bulbous trichomes with yellow arrows & the red arrows mark the capitate-sessile trichomes. Cyan arrows denote cystolith hairs.

Life inside a capitate-stalked trichome




image by: Snaps_Provolone

Disc cells, attached to leaf or bract by stipe cells (RED) & basal cells (GREEN), release fibrillar wall matrix into secretory cavity where it contributes to thickening of subcuticular wall during enlargement of secretory cavity. Plastids (ORANGE) in disc cells produce secretions called lipoplasts which synthesize quantities of lipophilic substances that accumulate outside the plasma membrane, migrating into the endoplasmic reticular cytoplasm and through the plasma membrane and cell wall into the secretory cavity where they form vesicles (BLUE) in the secretory cavity. Vesicles in contact with the subcuticular wall release contents that contribute to the growth of the cuticle during the enlargement of the secretory cavity. THC occurs in the walls, fibrillar matrix & other contents surrounding the vesicles, but not in the vesicles. Trace amounts of THC is present in the disc cells.





photo by: Eirik



When to harvest your trichomes
There are several schools of thought as to when it is the time to harvest. I shall attempt to explain how you can determine the harvesting time that will produce the most favorable psychoactive effect for your individual preferences.

We are most concerned with the capitate-stalked trichomes, as these contain the overwhelming majority of the psychoactive cannabinoids (THC, THCV, CBN). Different cannabinoids affect the high in a multifaceted manner.


THC:
delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol & delta-8-tetrahydrocannabinol - THC mimics the action of anandamide, a neurotransmitter produced naturally in the body, which binds with the cannabinoid receptors in the brain to produce the ‘high’ associated with marijuana. THC possesses high UV-B (280-315 nm) absorption properties.


THCV:
tetrahydrocannabivarin - prevalent in certain South African and Southeast Asian strains of cannabis. It is said to produce a ‘clearer high’ & seems to possess many of the therapeutic properties of THC.


CBD:
cannabidiol - previously believed to be psychoactive, or to contribute to the high by interacting with other cannabinoids, conversely the most recent research indicates that CBD has negligible effect on the high, it is however a strong anti-inflammatory, and may take the edge off some THC effects, such as anxiety. CBD as a non-psychoactive cannabinoid appears to be helpful for many medical conditions. CBD biosynthesizes into cannabinol (CBN) & tetrahydrocannabinol (THC).


CBN:
cannabinol - a degradation product of THC, produces a depressant effect, ‘fuzzy’ forehead.


CBC:
cannabichromene - non-psychoactive , a precursor to THC.


CBG:
cannabigerol - non-psychoactive, hemp strains often posses elevated levels of CBG while possessing only trace amounts of THC.

Heavy trichome production is not necessarily an indication of a potent plant. Some hemp strains have moderate layers of trichomes yet pack only a strong headache. In a drug strain, a thick layer of trichomes is a symbol that it may well posses an elevated potency level, but it is certainly not a guarantee.

What defines a cannabis drug strain is the plant's ability to produce THC & THCV.

A small 25x or stronger pocket microscope, which can be picked up inexpensively at an electronics store like Radio Shack, works well for getting a closer peek at your trichome development. We are examining are the capitate stalked glandular trichomes, the coloration of these gland heads can vary between strains and maturity. Most strains start with clear or slightly amber heads which gradually become cloudy or opaque when THC levels have peaked and are beginning to degrade. Regardless of the initial color of the secretory cavity, with careful observation you should be able to see a change in coloration as maturity levels off.

Some cultivators wait for about half of the secretory cavities to go opaque before harvesting, to ensure maximum THC levels in the finished product. Of course nothing tells the truth more than your own perception, so try samples at various stages to see what is best for you & the phenotype your are growing. While you may be increasing the total THC level in the bud by allowing half of the glands to go opaque, the bud will also have a larger percentage of THC breakdown products such as CBN, which is why some people choose to harvest earlier while most of the secretory cavities are still clear.

Indica varieties will usually have a 10-15 day harvest window to work with. Sativas and Indica/Sativa hybrids often have an extended period to work with.





photo by: Eirik






photo by: Proof_of_the_pudding

The figures above denotes clear trichomes with green arrows, the cloudy trichomes with yellow arrows & the red arrows mark the amber trichomes.

Why did trichomes evolve in nature?
Cannabis has evolved trichomes for a multitude of uses in nature, some of these require THC & other cannabinoids to be effective, and others that do not.


Insect Protection:
Many insects find the thick coating of trichomes unpleasant, this offers a level of protection for the developing seeds.


Animals:
The layer of trichomes and cystolith hairs makes cannabis less palatable to many herbivores & omnivores.


Desiccation:
The layer of trichomes helps to 'insulate' the pistilate (female) flower from low humidity levels and high wind.


UV-B Light:
UV-B light is harmful to living things, THC has very high UV-B adsorption properties, thus cannabis evolution may have favored the evolution of genotypes that produced these THC laden capitate-stalked trichomes as a built in 'sun-screen' for protection against UV-B light rays.


Fungal Protection:
Some of the compounds present in the trichomes actually inhibit the growths of some types of fungus.


Quite possibly, the most important reason for the evolution of the THC laden capitate-stalked trichomes is the intercession of man in the natural selection process, favoring genotypes that produce copious amounts of THC laden trichomes.

Last modified: 18:56 - Jul 02, 2003

__________________
un_Love

if electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?

un_Love

i also find that just entering:

http://www.overgrow.com/growfaq/xxxx

(the x's represent numbers)

that many links you can't get to from the front using this method are indeed cached. the pictures are somebody else's deal. i can't get em with my methods thus far. thus far.

and here is "What is stretch and how can I minimize it?"

Added by: snoofer Last edited by: snoofer Viewed: 214 times Rated by 6 users: 8.00/10
Contributed by: snoofer
Submitted: November 28, 2005
Thanks to: 20kw dreams

“Stretch” is a term for the natural vertical growth spurt in early flowering. Marijuana will grow in height throughout its flowering phase, but the first 2 weeks of flowering will show the most dramatic change in height and internodal distance. Stretch can also occur in the vegetative phase.

Stretch is generally considered an unavoidable evil, but some gardeners prefer a bit of stretch to allow budsites to fill in adequately. Buds with perfect density can be grown by controlling stretch.

Encouraging stretch can be a good technique to prevent budrot in susceptible strains and massive colas. Elongated buds are less dense, and the humidity within buds is reduced.

Note: Males will typically stretch much more than females and are easily identified and pre-sexxed by their extra height.

Why is stretch a problem?

Stretch is a problem primarily in indoor grows because it greatly reduces yield. The problem stems from the limitations of artificial light and the plant’s adaptations to low light.

Stretch also produces tall plants with weak and spindly stems. The weight of the buds later in flower will require staking to avoid damage and falling over. Stretch may be a sudden problem for growers with limited ceiling height.

Light intensity vs internodal distance

Light intensity diminishes exponentially with distance under artificial light (the inverse squared law). Sunlight is not affected by distance and can penetrate deep into a canopy.

Marijuana requires high light levels (At least 30w/ft2, preferably 50 w/ft2) to thrive and produce high yields. A plant is at its optimum flowering height when all it’s bud sites are bathed in intense light (ideally the entire plant is equally lit, producing dense bud from top to bottom).

Stretched plants are tall and their lower bud sites receive exponentially lower lumens than top colas. Budsites that are not receiving intense light will not produce well, and often the light and extra plant height is wasted. Tall plants require more energy to pump water to its leaves and transport photosynthate from its leaves. This extra energy could have gone into flowering. Stretched plants can yield 30-50% less.

Lower bud sites that are not illuminated sufficiently will produce under-developed buds: airy or popcorn bud. Popcorn buds have lower dry weight, take much longer to trim, and often have less bag appeal.

How can I minimize stretch?

Note: Some of these techniques only apply to the stretch phase.

Use a compact strain
Indicas tend to have minimal stretch growing characteristics in flower compared to tall-growing Sativas. Hybrids may grow unevenly, or react to stress unexpectedly.

Keep light at the optimum distance
Low light levels will cause seedlings and plants to stretch and produce poorly.

from: http://www.hrt.msu.edu/course/HRT100/lec8.htm
“….High light inhibits plant growth - plants tend to grow taller when there is less light."

Use adequate spacing
Very high planting densities will encourage stretch. As the plant grows, its leaves will quickly overlap its neighbors. Eventually the sub-canopy will darken and lower portions of the plant will experience significant shading.

from: http://ohioline.osu.edu/sc154/sc154_17.html
"Overlapping of plant parts reduces light intensity and changes light quality, resulting in light below plant canopies that is richer in near-infrared and far-red which encourages plant stretching."

Pruning, FIM'ing and topping
Pruning plants in veg and early flower can effect the flow of auxins within the plant. Re-distributing natural growth hormones from terminal shoots to lateral shoots is a good way to slow height growth.

Note: Pruning in SOG systems is not recommended, as this promotes bushiness.

Use blue-spectrum light

Using MH light exclusively during vegetative and early flower phases will help keep internodal length shorter.

From: What do all of those lighting terms mean?
“The light produced by metal halide lamps is in the white-blue spectrum, which encourages vegetative growth and "bushiness" while discouraging upward growth. This is the bulb to use in the first, vegetative phase of plant growth.”

HPS bulbs are the preferred lighting source for flowering. However, most HPS bulbs have a harsh and limited light spectrum concentrated in the far red and IR that encourages stretching.

Growers have a variety of bulb options to increase blue light during the vegetative and early flowering phase:


Supplemental fluorescents

MH bulbs, or a mix of HPS to MH (3:1 recommended)

Conversion bulbs (MH bulbs that work with HPS ballasts)

Enhanced HPS

Minimize night/day temperature fluctuations

According to Cannabis Culture : (http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/1536.html)

"Plant internodal length is directly related to the difference between day and night temperatures – the warmer your day cycle is as compared to your night cycle, the greater your internode length will be. The opposite also holds true; the closer your day and night temperatures, the shorter your internodes will be."

Minimize stress
Stretching can be a physiological reaction to a variety of environmental stresses (Low light, high humidity, low/high temperatures, transplant shock, leaf loss, etc). Maintaining optimum growing conditions is your best defense against stretch.

Anti-stretch additives
SuperBud is a popular additive to help minimize stretch and initiate flowering faster. May not be available. Expensive.

(Thanks 20kw dreams!)
Bonza Bud (contains antigibberillins) shortens internode length while helping the predominance of female flowers.

Phosphoload by Dutch Master. Apparently contains the same ingredients as Superbud.

Bush Master at BGHydro.com
"Bush Master does exactly the same thing as Phosphoload and Dutch Master SuperBud and is much less expensive."

Growth retardants:
http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/greenhous...30-102.html#L4

Avoid hormones
Some foliar sprays and additives can encourage stretch. Spraying Growth Plus (containing cytokines, humic acids and vitamins) during early flower may encourage stretch. "Cytokinine - activates cell stretching..."

Use side lighting (vertical bulbs)
Untested. The Phototropic effects of side lighting may limit the amount of stretch: “…dark side of the stem grows more than the lit side of the stem.” (http://www.hrt.msu.edu/course/HRT100/lec8.htm)

Grower's tricks:


Use MH lights during vegging and the first 2 weeks of flowering (during the stretch phase) for short internodes.


Avoid high levels of Nitrogen during the stretch. Use a transition fertilizer ratio (1-1-1) during early flowering to maintain a medium level of Nitrogen.

Note: Switching immediately to a flowering ratio (A low N ratio) from veg can result in premature yellowing. Remember to flush veg ferts out first!


Use oscillating fans to help strengthen stems

OverGrow Links:

why do my seedlings stretch?

What distance should my light be from my plants?

Vegetative growth > Training/Pruning folder

What is Superbud?

What do hormones/growth regulators contain?

What are hormones and what do they do?

Last modified: 03:41 - Nov 28, 2005

__________________
un_Love

if electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?

stonermom

Un_Love, you are amazing : Keep up the great work!!

__________________
"Some people think to 'puff the magic dragon' means to ... um... to smoke a ...uh... a marijuana cigarette..."

"Are you a Pothead, Focker?!?"