outdoors

Evenin'
Is anyone using Reverse in their grows?
A new product offered by DutchMaster, promises to reverse hermies to females and now I've heard that people are using it from the get-go to enhance their female to male ratios. I've done quite a bit of reading on it but want to know if anyone here has any experience with it.
Peace-
OD

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EdgeGrow

This sounds very interesting. I would like to know as well.

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GenocideKommand

wow i am defenitly intrested in this if you can find more info please let me know.

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Check out my first grow Cab with 400w hps.
http://www.gardenscure.com/420/showthread.php?t=92207

shrubz

I have'nt read anything on it but I'm doubting it's even possible. Someone wants more money

freedomfries

It works by stopping the plant from being able to produce pollen even if it has male flowers.

Brought to you by the same people who had their SuperBud removed from the market by using ingrediants they shouldn't have been.

Maybe I'm old school, but I'm gonna stick to pulling those hermies...

Xgone.

hi OD!

I agree with freedom on this one. I think the reverse is likely a good last resort to stopping hermaphroditism at the end of flowering but I wouldn't be using it regularly unless I was trying to conintually cultivate a highly unstable cultivar. Because reverse stops proper pollen production, I tend to think that it would a great product to have on hand for multi-strain grows (especially with unstable cultivars)

I must admit, I have posted about this product before (not knowing what it was called) and have been very intrigued. If you decide to use it, please keep us informed of your results...!

Just outta curiosity, what sparked your curiosity in this product? Anything specific? Or are ya just fed up with pollen in general

canadaseeds

I'm pretty confident their product contains Ionic silver (suspended silver). This is definately not a "new" idea as people have been doing it for years. I find it to be the least stressful way of forcing a female plant to grow male sacs for all female seeds. (I believe female seeds uses this technique for their 99.9% hermie free female seeds). You can do this very simply and cheaply without paying them a dime by making your own. I have yet to encounter a hermie as a result from the offspring of this method.

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Here's a couple rips from some threads I've collected. I've actually done this and it works like a charm
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These are all taken from other threads/forums and not my words

"Anyhoo. More about ionic silver. I was just saying elsewhere that I think we might want to get away from saying this process works with "colloidal silver", because colloidal silver is a somewhat broad definition- any silver in solution... and the large particles that result from a higher-voltage process (or from commercially available sources) don't seem to really result in full reversal. Whereas those from Cabron's process are the smallest silver particles possible, and are basically "ionic". Does this make sense? I think this distinction might stop people from blowing big bucks on bottles of "colloidal silver" to save themselves time.

The process Cabron has developed needs to be followed very closely for this to work. Key elements of the technique that result in ionic silver are:

1. the low voltage (6 volts is optimum, but anyting at or below 12 volts DC will probably work well). Also, it must be DC, not AC. Amperage hasn't been discussed much; but anything in the 300-900 mA range is what we are looking for. I really suggest getting a 6 volt 300 mA transformer from Radio Shack. Easy to work with and inexpensive, and then we all have a standardized power source to discuss. While 9 volt batteries will work, there will be some variation in the final product that may affect reversal. Exact amperage measured as the process progresses during the 5 hours goes from a tiny amount to a much higher amount due to a conductivity increase as the silver goes into the solution. 6 volts/300 mA is perfect.

2. the airstone and air pump- I have since read about this specific technique of Cabron's elsewhere on the web (they drink the stuff and say that the tiny silver particles are the only ones that target a virus); the airstone is absolutely essential for this process to work properly. This was the opinion of a chemist who anylized the process and it's final product. A magnetic stirrer as seen in labs will also work, but that's a bit beyond most of us. We're basically looking for circulation.

3. the use of distilled water - there must be absolutely nothing else in the water for it to be pure. This may not be entirely critical for cannabis reversal purposes, but personally I drink the stuff too. So- no salt to increase conductivity, and no silver less than .999% pure if you are going to drink it. As an aside, you need to make sure that the alligator clips and any other metal stay well clear of the water to avoid contamination. Saran wrap prevents splashing that results from the bubbler.

4. a proper period of time to let the process work - 5 hours is good. I tend to let mine go 6 to 7 hours. I have read elsewhere that the length of time it needs to run is affected by room temperature. The times listed indicated that 6 to 7 hours was best with room temps of 70 degrees F. Longer times for colder temps and shorter times for warmer temps. It can be very helpful to use a laser pointer to determine if the process is working well. The laser, when pointed through the liquid in the dark, will show a beam of cloudiness when the amount of silver gets higher. For the first two or three hours it looks like nothing is happening at all. At that point one of the silvers will begin to blacken.

Running the process for more than 12 hours will apparently result in larger silver particles (which we don't want); the conductivity at the end gets too high and too much amperage is the result.

5. a standardized amount of distilled water. I haven't seen this discussed much, but 16 ounces is the amount I have settled on. Obviously 8 ounces of finished solution will be twice the strength of 16 ounces, but probably even more due to the increased conductivity of the stronger batch. It seems like the results on reversals will vary accordingly; maybe so, maybe not. Since we can spray them hard and spray them often without stressing the target plant, this may be a minor issue.

6. the distance between the electrodes probably has some affect upon how well the process works. The hard part is that the ideal distance may vary depending upon what conductor type is used, be it wire, coins or bars. I used two 1 oz. silver bars with the top bent into a U shape to hang on the glass rim. Mine were spread about 2 and 1/2 inches apart, and judging by the cloudy beam of laser light this worked fine. For what it's worth, I saw no yellowish tint... my final product was crystal clear in normal light. Maybe my final ppm of silver was a bit too low... I probably need to check that with my ppm meter."

I hope that this information will help those of you who are new to sex-reversal processes. It is nice to get the 'Whole Enchelada' on your plate, so Bon Appitito Everyone

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so i did my first 8 oz of ionic silver , i used a small fountain water pump to circulate the water , no air bubbles , so after just 1 hour the silver wires got cover like 1mm of black ash ( like cigarrett ash) so i let them run for 5 hours , the water is pretty cloudy because of the ash , i'll post pics tomarrow, so yesterday i gave the clone the first bath in silver (soak wet) and today it will be the second bath , i'll just spray him just one time a day , the water solution looks strong. so lets see what happends. i'll post pics tomarrow.
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have successfully reversed one plant (FET's A11 f2) so far with IS and am a couple weeks into trying with a LR f2 from TIM.

My first go around: Selfing an A11
A had a small 8 oz.? mason jar filled with distilled water. I then took an AC adapter that converts to 6 volt DC 900mA, I cut the small plug off of the end, stripped the wires a little and attached two alligator clips. I took two 6 inch pieces of silver wire and attached one to each alligator clip. I bent each silver wire into a candy can shape so that a majority of the wire would be in the water with the alligator clips safely on the outside of the glass. Plugged in the AC adapter and waited about 8 or 9 hours, because I forgot about it... There was all kinds of black goo on the silver.

I took my A11 clone that had been rooted for probably 2-3 weeks under 24 hours of light. I started spraying the solution 2 days before putting the clone into 12/12 and about every day for 2 weeks afterwards. Male flower clusters were forming by around week 3, maybe a bit sooner. I later took the pollen and put it onto a second A11 clone from the same mom. The seeds are currently forming, so I don't have a germ test yet...


Second test: Reversing and autoflowering LR

Did the same thing to make the IS as the first, except around a week and a half in, I made a second batch of solution this time using a air stone to circulate. The reason I made more was because my first batch of IS was turning a dark color. I have kept my LR under 24 hrs of light the enitre time. I started spraying the LR gal when I could clearly make out two female preflowers w/ tiny white hairs. I sprayed it at least once a day everyday since. I didn't keep tabs on when I started, but I think that its been about 2 and a half weeks and I am stopping now. There are quite a few female flowers but some male flowers forming in the center, so I will just let it go and see what happens. The excess female flowers don't suprise me much, due to the later time in which I started using the solution. Now its time to wait and see if I can get some pollen.


I really don't think that spraying everday is necessary, but it worked the first time and I didn't want to chance not putting enough on. Maybe in the future we can figure out the optimum rate.

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~R

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