pupuguru

High, This is a video on a fast, easy way to make meds.

YouTube - Making Hemp Flower Concentrates

nigel

Thanks Johnny, i appreciate your input.

I currently use a bit of pottassium sulphate, epsom, seaweed and fish; no insecticides or other cides at all' so pretty clean there.

Just dirt and chlorophyll coming off, but as you noted that is volume.

Water does not move mj goodies, so the drop in the overall volume; increases their %age / total volume of mj.

Suprised the volume of contaminants was that high; this is good; i was working with a ballpark figure of 10 -15%.

I am with you BC Guerrilla Grower; alcohol does seem a safer option. Despite once qualifying as a lab technician; i have never felt comfortable using things whose names i could not pronounce. Could use some of the equipment though. lol.

will post some pics of the magic oil meets the power drill next shift; here's a pic of my medicine cabinet. lol nigel

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__________________
"There are no problems; there are only solutions." Bill Mollinson

snowboarderCO42

I know we have to cross the international dateline to get you place, but damn it is 01/01/2011 there!!!!!! LOL

__________________
All I am looking for is a little happiness.

My current grow journal
http://www.gardenscure.com/420/soil-...rry-girls.html

JustJointGirl

Nigel and Snowboarder,
PLEASE Keep Us Filled In On All The Details of your extraction process- I'm sending you both some 'Good Luck' Juice, So Get er Done!

JointGirl

wolverine3591

Duff oil update:

Finally found some syringes.. You wouldn't think they'd be very hard to find? Ha! I looked in all the usual places like Pharmacies, dept stores and such but couldn't find them any where and then a very helpful store clerk suggested a pet supply store and eureka! Found these at Pet Smart for $2.79 ea (15cc)...

I discovered that taking the Doil in Gel Cap form to be the most effective and least messy way to dispense...

I use a Mr. Coffee Mug warmer to re-heat my Doil, let it get warm and then cool down again until it gets to a consistency where it can easily be sucked up by the syringe.

Now I can easily fill gel caps, albeit, one at a time, but I don't want a mess so...

I use 00 gel caps from Cap-M-Quick





I get approx. 1/4 oz or 8 cc from 1 processed jar , I put about 1/2 of a cc per cap, too much of this goo and you can't function!

I take one in the AM and one in the PM. This dosage level provides me with adequate pain control, but not out of control so I can maintain daily tasks...

If you want to take a trip, fill up one cap (about 1/3 of a gram) grab a couch and melt for about 6 hours... wow, way to strong and long for this old fart... lol

Again, I am VERY PLEASED with the outcome. I have processed 4 jars in the last 3 weeks using the crock pot method with no problems at all!

And the best part is, I keep making more and more Duff so I can make more and more Doil, HA!

Whatever method of processing you choose, just PLEASE BE SAFE!

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__________________
Caps for da Pain Vape for da Brain

Cannabis Capsules
DIY Vaporizer

Wolve

JustinK

Looks like you have your oil set up very well! Shawn the AIDS patient also takes his oil through capsules, and I think that would be an optimal method of dispensing. After taking that oil for awhile, you should be pain free even without it.

P3nelope

i am so excited to read about this budding "gardens' cures project" for so many reasons!!!
IMHO this cooperative effort would definitely benefit from a subforum dedicated exclusively to personal recovery journals-- so that the documented case studies might be more conveniently communicated, followed and referenced. i would also suggest that any information pertaining to subjects' medical diagnoses and target symptoms, other medications, strains, basic growing conditions, materials and extraction methods, and dosage administration should be clearly noted along with the fullest descriptions possible of all results and side effects both positive and negative. It may also be a good idea to include any safety and ethical considerations as they arise.
While they may not technically constitute ethical clinical trials, such anecdotal case studies will stand as social facts-- as susceptible to scientific scrutiny as any other alleged fact Ground it all in voluntary informed consent and empirics for fantabulous gains *bleeds optimism* in the movement to legitimize the otherwise occult knowledge of cannabis True scientists are maverick in approach and will not validate authority without good and soundly demonstrable reason-- true authority will not neglect or censor evidence contrary to any tentatively held theory, and facilitates paradigm shifts whenever reason demands.

it seems to make sense to tuck in this edited repost here outlining the reasoning behind my version of the 'best' canna-oil recipe for this most worthy collective project. So here is just about everythink i believe i understand about the essential oils of cannabis--gleaned as meticulously as possible from a variety of sources and a lucky apprenticeship with a master honey extractor with over 20 years of experience unfortunately i've lost track of my bibliography and cannot otherwise name my sources... so i would appreciate notice if anythink here should be discredited

Purity Vs. Potency
The purity of hash {or condensed kief} refers to the proportion of plant matter and other contaminants among the solid resins. The purest canna-oil {aka. hash oil, hemp oil, honey oil, etc} would contain nothink but condensed liquified trichomes and their cannabinoid contents-- and so would approximate the same colour as those blended trichomes. The common clear gold to amber 'honey oils' are the result of common harvest timing at the cusp of trichome development averaging at the cloudy stage, with the proportion of clear and amber affecting the final colour and effects. Ruddy red oils are produced from higher concentrations of amber-CBN trichomes that many consider over-ripe and are usually employed as sedatives Only once have i been happily treated to a dose of canna-oil so clear as the glass it was in that it would have been invisible if didn't have a diamond shine
Strain and phenotypic differences aside-- trichome formation and the biosynthesis of THC is generally most concentrated on flowering tops and sugarleafs. With the highest ratio of cannabinoids to plant material, these will produce higher yields of essential oils by weight. This concentrated resin to plant matter ratio as well as the higher THC content is why these are so widely considered the most potent parts-- and why some strains are designated as more potent. The higher plant matter to resin content of less dense flowers and other trimmings considered low-quality for smoking does not render such so-called 'shake' impotent, simply less potent in terms of THC by weight. Total cannabinoid production occurs in all parts of the plant, though less densely packed trichomes situated on fan leaves and lower sections of the plant do tend to be underdeveloped-- and so may contain significantly larger proportions of CBD and other cannabinoids relative to THC or CBN. Concentrates and extracts, whether solid or liquid, are the most potent forms of cannabis. As far as i know though, the potency of pure canna-oil depends on the specific cannabinoid profile and the desired effects-- and sadly, until cannabis-ology is more adequately legitimized, that remains at the level of subjective analysis.

The ideal is to rinse and dissolve trichomes caps and resins so efficiently that no plant matter is absorbed during the process and then ensure that the solvent is completely evaporated before storage or consumption. Impurities may not have much of an effect on the potency, but it definitely affects colour, consistency and overall quality. It's a debatable matter of taste and aesthetics really, but green slime is far less appealing IMO than carmel goo even if both spark uncontrollably near open flame only one of those will get better with simple patience.

Pure medical-grade naphtha being prohibitively expensive and otherwise harder to obtain, and butane being just as insanely combustible -- the solvent of choice tends to be the 99% isopropyl alcohol from the first aid department that is safe enough for open wounds, even though it is much more likely to absorb chlorophyll. Also, butane extractions often tend toward a thicker, sometimes almost solid consistency depending on the strain. {there are connoisseur circles where more solid extractions of extremely high purity are distinguished from honey-THC oil by a more unique name... but honestly, i'ma not sure i like the confusing conceptions of "bud-budder" or "hippy-crack" lol}

For general purposes of external applications, bonging and mixing most evenly into edibles tho, a more syrupy alcohol rendering might the best bet-- but the choice is personal.
The following recipe is tried-true and personally tweaked, so it should be entirely replicable-- assuming i describe the procedures clearly enough Following that, i hope to clarify the 'hows' with some of the more obscure 'whys' involved and not wake up face-down on my keyboard in the meantime lmlao :P

Basic Alcohol Method {The Hows}:
1) thoroughly dry, freeze and then pulverize all plant materials
2) freeze ground herb and 99% isopropyl for at least a couple of hours
3) pour up to 2 parts ice-cold alcohol over 1 part frozen herb
4) barely shake or gently stir, depending on your preference and the availability of a tight lid
5) put the mix in the freezer for 8-15 minutes to soak, or let stand 4-8 minutes
6) barely stir/shake even more gently
7) strain solution through fine mesh or cheesecloth-- wait patiently for drips and DON'T squeeze!!
7b) walk far away to BHB
8) strain again through paper coffee filter
8b) BHBs
9) liquid should be transparent golden and only the palest of green {leprechaun gold maybe? lol} and entirely free of debris-- if there are any solid bits, filter it again more carefully with fresh and dry equipment
9b) BHB {maybe even a nap lol} and commit to {semi-}final finishing technique

Finishing Techniques:
Option #1:
Alcohol evaporates at room temperature, so cover the container with cheesecloth to keep gunk out while letting the alcohol vapor escape. Place in a cool, dry and vented area where it won't be disturbed for up to several weeks depending on the amount and surface area-- and tolerate the aromatics

Option #2:
Pour into a double boiler or ultra-slow cooker {a clean stainless steel bowl floating on a large pot of simmering water works like madd btw } With the MOST EXTREME CAUTION in a well-ventilated area, slowly increase the rate of alcohol evaporation by gradually increasing the temperature -- seriously, AVOID open flames, inhaling fumes and splashing at all costs and DON'T allow the alcohol to boil. {not only does boiling increase the risk of splashes, spillage and injury but higher temperatures may also increase the degradation of THC into CBN, especially near 106*C }
Reduce or remove the heat when the alcohol is nearly evaporated and the mixture begins to thicken into the consistency of slick grease. Warm oil should congeal and ooze when the bowl is tilted. ^Remove from heat immediately and transfer to freezer if it begins to look dull in any spots-- and i do mean QUICK!

Now for the Test:
Alcohol will not freeze, but the semi-precious alchemical gold you are wanting will. So a simple test of whether any solvent remains is to put it in the freezer for awhile and take some more BHBs. Depending on the quantity, 20 minutes to an hour might be enough. If it's still shiny and fogs up with a breath...if it's all firm and not tacky to the touch then pat yourself on the back! congrats! your oil is reasonably safe to consume! An optional final cleansing technique might make it even safer, but it's good enough to let it warm up to room temperature and smear it thinly on a zig-zag to admire the colour and flavour hopefully no hint of green
If frozen oil is sticky to the touch it either isn't quite frozen or some alcohol remains. If freezing it a bit longer doesn't make the difference you have 2 options. Either cover it with cheesecloth and let it stand for a few hours or overnight, or carefully and very briefly reheat it without letting it getting too dull and overcooked, before testing it again.

Another test of purity is to check for sediment after vaporization at the melting/boiling point of THC near 157*-160*C.
Beyond vapour inhalation, medically purposed pure canna-oil is entirely fat-soluble and small, extremely potent oral doses are readily absorbed by any edible fat as well as the most fatty skin cells of the inner cheeks. Canna-oil, alone or as part of a salve can also be used in topical applications targeting specific skin cells, muscles and joints.

Final Water-Wash: {optional}
When solvent is entirely evaporated, refreeze the oil to test. Cover frozen oil with plenty of cold water and immediately return to heat, watching close for a gasoline-like sheen to appear on the surface. Return water-covered oil to freezer long enough to freeze the oil, but not long enough for the water to slush. Dump water and pat dry.


Whys:
If you decide to go with any isopropyl recipe, be sure to use 99%. Weaker iso solutions are diluted with water-- which dramatically impacts the chemistry of the process and the quality of the product. For this same reason, all plant material should be completely dried.
Water and oil don't generally mix well, but here are some practical reasons for minimizing the amount of water in the recipe:
a) THC and other cannabinoids are NOT water-soluble, but chlorophyll and other undesirables ARE
b) a smidgeon of water raises the boiling point of alcohol, changing the evaporation rate
c) cannabinoids are significantly more soluble in alcohol than undesirables at below freezing temperatures-- UNLESS moist chlorophyll glands are ruptured...

The main goal is to make the cannabinoids more accessible to the alcohol, yet minimize the risk of rupturing internal plant organs and releasing the greenness and other junk.
Trichome caps become waxy tough and snap most easily off their stalks when frozen, which is why ice water processes can produce some fantastically pure kind of hash {aka. bubble hash}. Any moisture remaining in plant tissues will crystallize and expand, bursting cell membranes and spilling all contents as it turns to ice. Bubble hash processes usually involve frozen fresh herb and can froth quite green, but the water-soluble chlorophyll is cleanly rinsed away from the waxy solids. However, when using a solvent, whatever dissolves into the solution will pass through the final filter and end up congealing in the final product only water and alcohol will evaporate at their respective rates.
Water-curing fresh plant matter prior to drying and processing is, IMO, a fantastic suggestion {thanks to whomever for the reminder! }, as this should leach a significant amount of the water-soluble impurities out in advance and, given minimal agitation, leave most of the resins intact. {though only a controlled test of the plant material's oils:weight ratio could negate that hypothesis }

Grinding frozen herb into fine particles actually begins the process of separating trichomes from the plant matter. If the plant materials are thoroughly dry, grinding also exposes more surface areas and crushes surface tissues that release resins with minimal damage to chlorophyll glands. This provides for more immediate absorption by the alcohol and reduces both the soaking time and the amount of agitation needed to rinse the alcohol completely through the plant materials. Chlorophyll glands are most fragile when moist, but prolonged soaking, squeezing and stirring too vigorously will leach more green. Also, frozen dried chlorophyll does not dissolve in alcohol nearly easily as waxy trichomes. Keeping the mixture as cold as possible allows for a longer soak time with less worry of greening the batch. Storing the alcohol in the freezer ahead of time can also separate any water out as ice. Sieving the material out quickly before a finer and slower final filter helps remove any ice that may have formed and reduces the total soaking time, especially at room temperature.

Soaking the plant matter in twice as much alcohol ensures that all plant particles are making full contact with the alcohol and are somewhat buffered from each other. The higher proportion of alcohol in the mix also increases yield-- by decreasing the chance that it's saturation point will be reached before all the goodies are absorbed. Some honey-bees choose to rinse materials with less alcohol more than once-- with each successive rinse providing a smaller, darker, less pure and less potent yield. IMHO though, this seems an excessive use of alcohol and time; a second run after using 2 parts alcohol didn't produce much of any value.

take care & enjoy life
P3n

MintMinnow

Boy, this has been a busy season, trying to produce medicine "from the ground up".....
I thought I'd share our method of dispensing: we mix the oil with powdered bud to make a clay-like putty (soft hash), then mold this into pills & swallow!!
Presently we're using Rick's naphtha method, using our own hg bud & trim for the oil. The butane method is so much easier, we may switch as soon as I locate a suitable (affordable) supply of solvent!
P.S. Anyone used butter as a carrier for the meds? I've made the butter in past years (abundant harvest!) & the wife made "killer" brownies with this green grease!

Lusitano

Hi...

I am so relieved to come across this wealth of information on creating Ricks' oil, or at least as close to it as I can. My dad has stage 4 cancer, for at least a year. I was told last December, but did not find Rick's story until more recently. In a decade, I've seen him once because neither of us can afford the plane tickets across the planet. I hope to be able to go see him in the US by September, but he thinks this might be too late! So now I desperately search for cures so it won't be too late. The quack levels out there are terrible and they are good at convincing people to try them. I try to keep my dad from going to see one!

Please read the post I put up today, before I found this!!
https://www.gardenscure.com/420/tiki...k-simpson.html

TY Nigel for starting this thread. I see the need to step back all of the way to the first page. In my searching for cancer info, I've seen the CBD is the cannaboid that EATS cancer cells!!! But RS's oil has booth, so I am unsure if the THC is needed or not, for cancer. I explain this in my other post.

So, has anyone here found out which solvents will also dissolve CBD? I want to make sure it is in here! CBD and CBN have uses for more than just cancer. Here's a few:
cannabidiol (CBD)
Boiling point: 160-180*C / 320-356*F
Properties: Anxiolytic, Analgesic, Antipsychotic, Antiinflammatory, Antioxidant, Antispasmodic

Cannabinol (CBN)
Boiling point: 185*C / 365*F
Properties: Oxidation, breakdown, product, Sedative, Antibiotic

It looks like the 99%ISO method with no heating or the tincture from duff turned into honey. I started a duff tincture last week. I only had 1/8 cup of it. It's all I have used in my research on which strains for my pain will replace my morphine. I've been on morphine for 10 years and it's wrecking my body. MMJ helps replace 1/2 of it, but is not legal. My work on cancer i stop priority for me anyway.

Now the Duff man uses everclear. I have Russian vodka, same thing. Can these be used instead of 99% isopropyl? I have no clue of such things

More important I guess s what will really get the CBD into the oil. SO mentioned Nepthal (sp?) but surely there must be more choices? I don't mind purity, it's what's in it and potency.

I have a bad of dried plant material. No sugar in sight. It was free... 500g are left. it's not sounding like this of the 300g I just dumped into my crockpot will help dad much. I don't know where and how to buy the 500g of buds in Rick's recipe. Not even in my trip to Amsterdam could i find anything other than what;'s in the coffee shops or from a kind stranger, the plant. As I explain in the other post, time runs out. It's breaks my hear that RS could have saved my dad. I see places to buy the oil, but like warned, it's likely pure crap. R's stuff was so strong, only a few drops per day worked.

Earlier today I decided there was no way in hell I'd be able to make oil, but JJG posted the safe way to do it with isopropyl (why can't vodka or Everclear be used?!) and now I just need good stuff to make it with. My failure mean death for dad. This knowledge is eating me alive. I just can't fail!

Sorry for the confusing post... it's 4am and my morphine has fried my thinking 24/7 and worse right after I take some. G'night folks.

JustinK

Good luck Lusitano on helping out your dad! Everclear can be used as a solvent, I know JohnnyAppleWeed from GreenPassion uses it. By the way, hemp oil kills pain better than morphine, so the oil would help you as well.

In Amsterdam, you can easily get oil from Sam Smith, although the full treatment would be quite expensive. However, when it comes to life and death, there is no price that is too great!