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Go Back   The Garden's Cure > Botanical References > The Reference Library > The Great Hall of Threads > Hydroponics, Aeroponics & Soil-less Methods
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Old 10-30-2001, 06:13 PM   #21
tybowl
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tybowl is beginning to sprout.
HEATER & TIMING
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I have just few questions?

Where does the nutrient heater go in the design of aero?

Do you leave the pump running 24/24 or on delayed timer?

When flushing with ball tap do you run clean warm water through the jets out the valve?

Would it also be alright to used black plastic tubing designed for small garden bed, instead of pvc?

Any advise would be appreciated as Iam now growing Shanti (I keep going to say Silvia Saint for some reason or another) and Skunk in a self water static system.
But I'm having alot of problems with algae and oxygen within the water, light is a big factor I know, thus trying a
different appproach..
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Old 10-31-2001, 07:35 PM   #22
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Re: HEATER & TIMING
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On nutrient heater:
-- What is a nutrient heater? There is none in the AeroSpring.

On 24/24 timing:
-- I don't know. I followed the directions for the AeroSpring--1 minute on and 4 minutes off. I have used 3 minutes on and 3 minutes off without any noticable difference. Some people don't use a timer at all.

On draining:
-- I attach a hose from my clothes washer exhaust drain to the AeroSpring. Then turn on the pump.
-- I then open the ball tap and let it pump until the water level is at the intake.
-- I then close the ball tap; turn off the pump; attach the hose to the cold water tap at my washer; and run COLD water into the AeroSpring through a maintenance hole.
-- I then repeat.

On black plastic instead of PVC:
-- I haven't tried it. I don't see why not. Stoney appears to use a flexible clear plastic.

On algae:
-- Block all light going into the AeroSpring. Wrap with Pro-Pak 20 mil pvc tape if necessary.
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Old 10-31-2001, 08:17 PM   #23
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Heater
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Thanks Scrub

The flushing I now understand.

The timing all understood.

But the heater question?

Most units I have seen recommend the water temp to be around about 25c, so they place a normal
aquarium heater 200 watt or whatever to maintain the tempreture of the mist over the plants roots,
optimal growth is reached when the water temp is between 22c & 26c, I was led to believe that cold water
directly onto roots would shock the plant.
So do you think that it would be of benefit to have a heater in the camber lying on the bottom?

Your answers and help have been appreciated.

TB
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Old 11-02-2001, 07:31 PM   #24
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Hopefully someone else can answer your heater question. It is my opinion that temperature is not a major concern. In fact, one reason for the timer is to avoid the submerged pump overheating the water.
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Old 11-03-2001, 04:01 PM   #25
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I found this at generalhydroponics.com
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Quote:
Too Hot, Too Cold

Water temperature is another important factor. If your solution is too cold, seeds won't germinate, cuttings will not root and plants will grow slowly - or stop growing and die. If it's too hot, the same seeds won't germinate, cuttings won't root and plants will die from oxygen deficiency or simply from temperature stress. Most plants prefer a root zone temperature range of between 65 degrees (18 C) and 80 degrees (27 C), cooler for winter crops, warmer for tropical crops. When adding water to your reservoir, it is a good idea to allow it to come to the same temperature as the water in the reservoir.

Remember, plant roots have evolved in a soil environment, where temperature changes occur slowly, tempered by the thermal mass of the earth.

Plants do not like rapid temperature changes, especially in the root zone!
I'm now following those instructions and I have added a fish tank heater for a 5 gal tank.

That's the fun thing about the AeroSpring. It's still very much a work in progress. What ever works for you is what you should do. If you don't want to bother, don't bother. It's all-good.

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Old 11-04-2001, 06:44 PM   #26
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Thanks Scrub & Stoney

I think I will go with the nutrient heater in the bottom under the jets.

Stoney

I notice that you had problems with the microjets, I've learn that the sprinkler type, ones that
spin around are better and stop alot of build up.
Just a thought.

Thanks again guys

TB
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Old 11-14-2001, 12:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by tybowl
I think I will go with the nutrient heater in the bottom under the jets.

the problem most people will have is that the solution may get too hot - and people try ice cubes/frozen ice packs.

Pumping the solution through tiny jets is inefficient for motors and they generate heat -- look at the wattage of your submersible pump, some of the mag-drives gets by with 25 or less watts and are more efficient, so they will heat the solution less. The first pump I tried was something like 50 watts and I was putting reusable cold packs into the solution around the pump - way too much of a p-i-a

Good luck and peace.
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Old 11-18-2001, 12:04 PM   #28
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Contagis on the Edge Forums uses a different spray head.
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Old 11-20-2001, 03:25 PM   #29
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Interesting. so those sprayers have to mount into T's?
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Old 11-20-2001, 04:36 PM   #30
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Yes, these spray heads are threaded. I think that the black barrel piece to the right of the 'T' is an adaptor that converts the slip section of the 'T' to a female thread. I'm not sure how these will spray with the given pressure. Check Contagis thread on the Edge Forums to determine GPM required andto see more and see how it works.
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