Dr. Funkenstein

Ok everyone, here's my problem.

I've been at it for a while now, and I've had a chance to learn from my plants, and my mistakes, etc.

I'm currently running hydro, useing hydroton pellets in "Hempy" style drainage cups which are working fine, but not as well as I had hoped (Laugh it up, Bluecheese) Well it turns out, hydroton does not hold as much solution for as long as say; perlite does.

So in order to push the plants to their limits, you need to give them regular feedings, like a DWC or E&F schedule, since I'm useing hydroton. The problem with this is, the waste! I watch the reservoir in the bottom of the cups/pots hold only a small percentage of what I mix, and the rest go to the drain tubs. So I tend to only mix up nutes once a week, feed them and apply water feedings as needed the rest of the week.

I've discovered when they do not get nutes is when they begin to look sickly and crispy and twisting of the leaves would occur, or the healthier ones stop excelling...

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So I need to build a cheap and easy system to give them regular feedings in my cramped space. I'm thinking a DWC tote or a makeshift E&F system. I also do not want to run much more power on this, so I'm trying to keep the pump simple and extremely energy efficient. I have them under a 24" Four bulb HOT5.

Here are some concerns I have:

1. I do not want roots to get tangled, as I may veg for longer sometime, and they may be sitting in the same home for a while.

2. I need to easily transport them to say 8" netpot lids for DWC buckets in my flowering room. Keeping safety and cleanliness in mind. I've been advised that moving larger plants in DWC can be a PITA. I've already seen my roots in my current system useing hempy cups with hydroton and the root balls would be hard to move if they were grown to gigantic preportions.

3. During veg, I like to be able to handle them and move them around so I can treat them with care. I know with DWC I can lift pots, but can I move them? Can they be rotated?

4. Energy consumption. E&F runs on a timer and only floods every so often, which I like. The DWC runs 24/7

5. Easy to build, less drilling. Which seems they both are fairly reasonable when it comes to making holes.



Everyone says E&F is easiest to maintain, I just do not want to have to hunt down stuff that fits well together, sizing everything up. The DWC is as easy as picking a tote, some net pots, and an air-stone with pump But I do not like how everything is locked in there, and roots can get tangled. I would prefer to have pots on a tray I can move around and nurse while in veg. But I have an extremely cramped space and would need to be able to tend to the reservoir below.

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Dr. Funkenstein

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>>>A Noob's Guide to FIRST Grow Room Set-Up: And a Reference for Everyone Else
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>>>Revised: The Complete Guide To Sick Plants, Pest & pH Troubles
>>>Burndt's Guide: How to Search GC.com Effectively

Dr. Funkenstein

Ok, I think I'm going with building an E&F from totes. Just need to find the best size for my space. Also, if I use netpots, will the roots eventually grow out of them in a flood and drain system? I thought this was bad for plants?

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Dr. Funkenstein

>>>Fisher Price: My First Grow Lab
>>>A Noob's Guide to FIRST Grow Room Set-Up: And a Reference for Everyone Else
>>>Ask Indiegurl: Electrical Advice from an Electrician
>>>Revised: The Complete Guide To Sick Plants, Pest & pH Troubles
>>>Burndt's Guide: How to Search GC.com Effectively

bluecheese

No. My e&f table has a top that suspends the net pots above the table. The roots cover the table & I cannot move plants because their roots are tangled.

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cheese

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Dr. Funkenstein

At what stage in the growth cycle are your roots out of control?

So then I should use pots that have the holes on the bottom only, if i plan to keep them mobile?

I'm going to build something like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAzxwpgnVhc

How would I tend to my pH with a tub/tray stacked on top of a tote reservoir though? I'm guessing I remove the plants, and lift the lid with the tray on top? Or gentley remove the lid to the tote, with plants in tray and prop up on rim of tote?


Thanks for your help, Bluecheese.

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Dr. Funkenstein

>>>Fisher Price: My First Grow Lab
>>>A Noob's Guide to FIRST Grow Room Set-Up: And a Reference for Everyone Else
>>>Ask Indiegurl: Electrical Advice from an Electrician
>>>Revised: The Complete Guide To Sick Plants, Pest & pH Troubles
>>>Burndt's Guide: How to Search GC.com Effectively

bluecheese

I only put rooted clones in e&f - and after about 2 weeks veg they are starting to tangle.

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cheese

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Dr. Funkenstein

What is the smallest reservoir I could get away with useing? I want to get something to fit my space, but if it's too much, I could get a smaller size tote to save space.

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Dr. Funkenstein

>>>Fisher Price: My First Grow Lab
>>>A Noob's Guide to FIRST Grow Room Set-Up: And a Reference for Everyone Else
>>>Ask Indiegurl: Electrical Advice from an Electrician
>>>Revised: The Complete Guide To Sick Plants, Pest & pH Troubles
>>>Burndt's Guide: How to Search GC.com Effectively

Dr. Funkenstein

Ok, I went out and picked me up an 18 gallon Roughneck tote with lid. Checked out some plumbing fittings, but was unsure as to what I needed to get specifically.

I was thinking I could just use vinyl hose instead of any pvc drains/fill lines. Probably cheaper and easier to put together. I'll keep looking around.

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Dr. Funkenstein

>>>Fisher Price: My First Grow Lab
>>>A Noob's Guide to FIRST Grow Room Set-Up: And a Reference for Everyone Else
>>>Ask Indiegurl: Electrical Advice from an Electrician
>>>Revised: The Complete Guide To Sick Plants, Pest & pH Troubles
>>>Burndt's Guide: How to Search GC.com Effectively

Dr. Funkenstein

I bought a 27 liter clear tray, 24"x18" which now fits snug on top of my 18 gallon roughneck tote lid.

Something of concern is there is a slight gully along the perimeter at the base of the 27 liter clear tray. I'm wondering if I set my fill and drain fittings in the center of this tray, if it will completely drain the tray, with this 1" gully that's molded into the plastic of this 27 liter clear tray. The tray is 6.5" deep, which is near the 7" depth of a 3x3 store bought flood tray, so I think this should do. Please chime in if I'm going in the wrong direction.

Seeing as how the tray fits snuggly on top of reservoir lid, I'm going to make 2 holes through the center of the tray and lid for the drain and fill hoses. I've seen a lot of people run their drain to the outside of the reservoir attached to a nozel at the bottom of the tote. I'm not sure why they do this, or if there is some kind of logical explaination for this.

I was planning to run my drain hose straight down and leave it sitting in the solution along the bottom of the tote, to reduce noise/water splashes. Would there be any problem with this?

I got my fittings and will be putting the tray together soon. Are there any tricks to making holes in plastic, to reduce the chance of cracking it? I drilled holes in buckets and had no problems, but when it comes to clear tote trays, they seem to be sketchy.

I was thinking of placing tape down, and drilling through this to prevent cracking.

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Dr. Funkenstein

>>>Fisher Price: My First Grow Lab
>>>A Noob's Guide to FIRST Grow Room Set-Up: And a Reference for Everyone Else
>>>Ask Indiegurl: Electrical Advice from an Electrician
>>>Revised: The Complete Guide To Sick Plants, Pest & pH Troubles
>>>Burndt's Guide: How to Search GC.com Effectively

Dr. Funkenstein

Hey everyone,.. I went to the pet shop to get me some aquarium silicone, but they did not carry it. I was wondering if there was any alternative I could pick up at the hardware store?


Also, I failed to get a coco mat for my flood tray, is this absolutely neccessary to have?

If I had to use it, I was thinking of cutting circles out of it the size of the bottom of my pots, so the entire tray wasn't filled with this mat, as I've heard people talking about bugs that get trapped or grow beneath the surface of this mat.

I figured this would be ok since I'm trying to maintain their roots within their pots.

Thanks

__________________
Dr. Funkenstein

>>>Fisher Price: My First Grow Lab
>>>A Noob's Guide to FIRST Grow Room Set-Up: And a Reference for Everyone Else
>>>Ask Indiegurl: Electrical Advice from an Electrician
>>>Revised: The Complete Guide To Sick Plants, Pest & pH Troubles
>>>Burndt's Guide: How to Search GC.com Effectively

scrub

Hi, Dr. F. I wish you luck with your endeavors.

Although this is late to the table as you have already selected E & F as your grow method, I wanted to say that I've been toying with a root separation method for DWC. It uses 'Egg-Crate' partitions in the DWC reservoir.

If I may ...

For instance, if I had to reduce root tangle on plants in eight positions in my DWC I would do the following:

• Cut one tote-length partition and four tote-width partitions from tote or similar material. Cut these to fit in your tote.
• Mark off the tote-length partition into quarters. At these marks, cut three material thickness slits halfway UP the partition.
• Mark off each tote-width partition into halves. At these marks, cut one material thickness slit halfway DOWN the partition.
• Place the tote-length partition in the DWC reservoir with slits open UP.
• Place the tote-width partitions in the DWC reservoir with slits open DOWN and interlock with the other partition's UPward facing slits.

If using four air stones in the DWC, you can notch the tote-length partition bottom edge in four positions. When you position the center partition, place it such that the notches hold down the air stones and span the two root chambers created.

I haven't tried this although I am considering it. Of course, this does not address the issue of the root ball fitting through the tote top holes.

Good growing to you.

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