bluecheese

Quote:
Originally Posted by afterburner
The only real trick about hydro is keeping your water cold (68-72) or you'll get root rot.
ab


Ewwwww - my res hangs between 72 & 75 degrees. It's underneath my e&f table & in an a/c room & my a/c is set to 68 degrees. Chillers are EXPENSIVE - do y'all think I need to invest in one?

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cheese

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scooterpie

Your in good shape.....


pi

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DarkFox

pi's right bluecheese...

I always try to keep my res's at 21 dec C, near as dammit to 70 deg F, but I haven't noticed any noticeable differences as long as it's between about 65 and 76 -ish. Below 65 and they grow real slow and above 76 they grow crap.

I think, but I'm not positive it's because too low and they're too cold to grow, and too high and the water doesn't hold dissolved oxygen.

If I was running a hot res though I would definitely run h202 to keep up the DO and help stop any root problems... Pythium loves the warm...

op_og_theearth

I'd say no man...I run well above most of the temps here in a small DWC setup with no pythium problems.

Course I use help (h2o2, *extreme* air, seal, etc), but whatever. For the entry fee of $500-$800 for a decent 'drop-in' chiller or whatever (I think that pricing is 1/3 or 1/4hp but it could be 1/2, check an aquarium site) I'd say fo-get-it.

btw, I'm not a conoisseur, though my post count does me no justice here. I'm an OG refugee. but i can tell you for certain, i don't grow 'crap' and there are many days above 76F.

peace!

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og refugee, looking for a new home...
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Ec/PPM goes up, PH goes down=plants require less nutes.
Ec/PPM goes down, PH goes up=Plants require more nutes
Ec/PPM stable, PH goes up=Equilibrium=Good thang.

bluecheese

Thanks to all of you who answered my question! I've considered H2O2, even studied up on it, but I've also read that WW is very finicky & someone used H2O2 when it wasn't needed & the plants suffered. I'm hesitant to use it as the plants are growing like mad. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?

I've thought about throwing some plastic freezepacks in the res, but I'm afraid of one leaking & killing all the plants. Maybe 2 litre pop bottles filled with water & frozen? Hmmmm.....decisions, decisions.

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cheese

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Lollie

I agree with scooterpie, why do anything? Like you said, you can cause damage if you start messing with the reservoir. Have you insulated your reservoirs, if you NEED something to do?

And

I support that choice.

All the best,
Lollie

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op_og_theearth

Plastic pop bottles. Depending on res size, 1 gallon, 2L, or somethin smaller(1L is nice too). Kinda easy to drop em in and replace. Replacing the water in the bottle every once in a blue moon is nice as well.

I hear bad things about those freezepacks and leaking.

__________________
----------
og refugee, looking for a new home...
My Journal: 30qt DWC 30"Lx34"Hx20"D Start-->Finish(complete! +5oz!, but journal has disappeared )
Figure Out What Has Gone Wrong...(thanks daltron)
Hydrogen Peroxide - H2O2 - a simple guide
My personal fav...all about root rot
CO2 Enrichment
Hydro Cheat Sheet (courtesy of OP)
Ec/PPM goes up, PH goes down=plants require less nutes.
Ec/PPM goes down, PH goes up=Plants require more nutes
Ec/PPM stable, PH goes up=Equilibrium=Good thang.

canadaseeds

In E&F systems as well as aero, your temps can be as high as 80 without seeing rootrot (as long as you have zero light leaks in your res, and you run a clean op). That quote is more geared for DWC and variations. E&F and aero systems are more forgiving when it comes to rootrot then DWC.

In my opinion, DWC's only weakness is it's high susceptibility for rootrot.

Rootrot is a very underestimated serious problem for hydro growers. I know first hand what the effects can be, with only even a slight case. It will decrease your yeild by giving you light, airy "fluffy" bud syndrome. one of the main effects is rootrot weakens your plant by decreasing nutrient uptake and messing with your PH which also decreases nute uptake even more.

While I haven't had it in quite awhile, rootrot is the bane of my existence. Why I have switched to aero yet is beyond me. Maybe Christmas will come early.

~r

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growerwannaB

I've fortunately never had root rot problems. I have 3 3x6 E&F tables with the 35 gallon res. I don't use air stones, I do use h202 though. I do love E&F, nothing easier to use when it comes to Hydro. I use GH nutrients, the Flora series, change my water Every Saturday and feed according to the GH feeding schedule. No PH problems, none of the other funky problems that pop up. The area I do need some practice in though is cloning......I've considered a water chiller for my cloner, found an nice one for about $400 on one of the dot com sites. I'd consider them for the E&F systems.....but dang.....I'd need 3 of them. I have my tables planted 3 weeks apart so I can have a harvest every 3 weeks as long as I'm diligent in refilling with clones. I do have hardwood floors in my grow room, I'm sure that's a big help to keep the temps down. I don't really ever have anyone at my house that isn't a fellow grower so I can leave the door open as well as my intakes from the outside. It's really nice in the winter, keeps the house warm. I use a 1000 watt light on a mover. Would 2 600s be cooler than the 1000 watt?? OR....is it just as effective having a single 1000 watt light on a 6 foot mover?? I'm using one of those 4ft vertizontal reflectors...which by the way....TOTALLY ROCKS!!! Here is a pic of the room....I've only got two tables showing in this pic....didn't set the 3rd table up before I took that pic. Whadda ya think?? Thanks and sorry for rambling....consumed too much of the harvest.

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Drummerboy1976

75 is okay, i use potasium silicate and DNF nutes and avoid rot. I clean out all the lines and the res every month.