alteredego

n_d

That is the exact same control panel I recently purchased. I payed $8 plus and additional $8 for shipping and handling. From my understanding then, If I am only going to be running cpu fans off of my power supply, I could go with a small power supply. Still there is basically no price difference from a 250 watt to a 500 watt. I am seeing 250s or 500s for around $25 shipped to my door.

Thanks again for the pointers!! I gots to go to work.

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alteredego

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Beener

OK rub eyes - lean back-rub eyes again - yup, it says "kitty litter scrubber" n_d_shadows...who's the man behind that mask...George Jetson?

I'm using a (4) channel fan controller by PCToys. Roughly $10 new. The fans I use, are posted a few posts back.

Alteredego - yes, your fans wont pull any watts to speak of.

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Beener

alteredego

Back to this thread.

Well I now have my 3 80mm fans, my fan control panel, and my power supply. Now the only problem is getting them to work.
I hooked every thing up and I get nothing. When I plug the power supply into the wall and flip the switch, the fan inside doesn't run and the fans from the control panel don't run. Shouldn't the cooling fan inside the power supply be running when it is on? What the ****!!!

I reread the entire thread and I cannot find anything I am doing wrong. Maybe the power supply I got was DOA.

This is what I got (plus 2 more fans).


Here is the fan control.


From the power supply there are 4 Peripheral, 2 Floppy, 1 Aux and 1 ATX12V connectors.
From the control panel there are 3 connectors for the fans, and 1 male and 1 female 4 pin plug (same as the peripheral).
I have tried plugging the female connector into any of the 4 the peripheral connectors from the power supply and still get notta.
Am I hooking something up incorrect or do you think there is a problem with the power supply?

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alteredego

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alteredego

It was there, right in front of me the whole time, must have read over it.
Now that I got everything to work, time to go play in the closet.

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Beener

Alteredego,

I'm glad you got that straightened out Theses things work great don't they. I love the fact the I can crank up the intake and then run a slower out
take fan. Then I get good air movement in the cab without blowing all my humidity right out the top.

I'm a little warm in there yet (82 to 84) but my R/H is excellent, which isn't easy to do in theses cabs from what I've read by others. Well my clones are happy anyway.

Just a little more tweeking. I was using a coolmist humidifier as an intake. I might through that back in line and use the comp fans as exhaust only. I need to finish a couple of other projects before I get back to that one. Good Luck with the new toy

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Beener

alteredego

I didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I would just add to this one.

I clearly need more ventilation in my cab. The temps are still getting up to the high 80s, so I was looking for more comp fans. Those LED fans are super cheap, but they light up in all different colors. Is there a way I can disable the LED lights in the fan? A cord I can cut or something.

Otherwise there are some of them that have green lights. It is said that green lights are okay to use with out affecting the light cycle. Would these be a problem if I used them at the top of my cab for exhaust?

Thanks again!

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n_d_shadows

Cheap fans normally are much louder then a good quality one. If stealth is an issue I'd reconsider.

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St0ney

and the price diffrence between the cheap lighted fan and a good quality fan is a only a few $$. I would spend a couple extra $$ and get a better/quiter fan.

Those blower fans from Partsexpress.com that N_D_Shadows poted about are only $4 each. not bad at all.. you can find quiter fans for around the same price at the expence of CFM's.

There is no way I'd put a fan with ANY colored light in my flower area.. but maybe thats just me.

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C-dawg

I just wanted to share some info for people looking to follow this thread:

If one is looking to just plug some computer fans into a power supply, you'll need to find out if the power supply is an AT (pre-1996) supply or ATX (1996-present). Chances are, if you bought something new, it'll be an ATX supply.

Why does this matter?
Well, let me tell you...

In the days before Windows98, computers weren't able to power themselves down like they can now. There was an extra lead from the transformer in the power supply attached to a simple SPDT switch that turned the whole thing on or off. This was the AT supply (I don't think AT stands for anything, it's just a standard, as far as I know).

With the advent of Win98, motherboard manufacturers were finally able to add a logic circut to the board that eliminated the need to physically turn off power. This is the same technology that allows you to put your computer into hibernation or to put it into suspension. This type of power supply, the ATX, will not simply power the fans because it's plugged in. It needs to be wired to bypass looking for this logic circut to turn it on.

If you're looking to purchase a computer power supply just to power fans, I'd look around Ebay for AT power supplies. I found several for under $1 (though, shipping on something like that is usually $5-8). If you already have an ATX power supply and you simply want to migrate it over, you can find wiring directions via your favorite search engine (if I remember correctly, you just have to install a momentary switch, normally off to short the green lead with any of the black grounds in the 20-pin ATX connector), but this is generally only for the experienced soldierer.

Further reading can be found here:
http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXP...pplyWiring.htm
http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.bat...owersupply.htm

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n_d_shadows

I have an ATX power supply at home Im using to power my computer fans. Took some messing and a set of jumpers but I found the right combination to turn the power supply on.

For those willing to use an ATX power supply and do the bypass wiring I suggest a toggle switch located in the bypass. I know on mine that when it lost power these wires had to be disconnected then reconnected (like tripping a circuit) before it will turn back on. A toggle switch has saved me having to redo the wiring on 3 occasions.

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