| | #21 | ||
| Seedling Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Ozone
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what we've used with great success for a interior reflecting materiel is a syrofoam board insulating materiel with a pebble finish mylar foil covering on one side. in a variety of thicknesses (it also holds temps more stable than a plain cabinet wall.) you'll find it at most home centers. its soft , easy to work and best of all shiny and cheap your shade idea sounds great! although complicated im going to love to see the end result. what level of finish are you contemplating? best i love this stuff!! sp | ||
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| | #22 | ||
| Senior Gardener Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: pennsylvania
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Sonic, That insulation sounds good, might provide some sound proofing as well. I'll have to browse Home Depot and see what they've got. On the nute front... After six hours surfing, I've only been able to find one set of formulae, Delta's. Not that I doubt his prowess, I'd just like to have something to compare, even if it's commercial hydro material. But the commercial sites don't post their micro-nutes analysis. I guess I'll start surfing for some MJ elemental analysis, it's a long shot. If all else fails I whip up some of each of Delta's. If anyone has seen a nute formula other than Delta's please post the link. | ||
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| | #23 | ||
| Senior Gardener Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: pennsylvania
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | After finding several leaf analysis I calculated the following recipe: To prepare 1 Liter Tomato Nutrient Solution TNS1 @ 1200ppm (calc. 1200mg/L TDS, obs. 3.0mS/cm ) 150/50/200 N/P2O5/K2O (ppm) Part A (500ml) 872 mg Ca(NO3)2, calcium nitrate 227 mg MgSO4·7H2O, magnesium sulfate heptahydrate 58.9 mg AlK(SO4)2·12H2O, aluminum sulfate dodecahydrate (alum) 2.71 mg FeCl3·6H2O, ferric chloride hexahydrate 1.06 mg H3BO3, boric acid 968 ug KMnO4, potassium permanganate 762 ug ZnSO4·7H2O, zinc sulfate heptahydrate 132 ug CuSO4·5H2O, cupric sulfate pentahydrate 15.8 ug Co(NO3)2·6H2O, cobalt nitrate hexahydrate Part B (500ml) 101 mg K2SO4, potassium sulfate 63.1 mg K2HPO4, potassium phosphate dibasic 10.9 mg KBr, potassium bromide 3.58 mg KCl, potassium chloride 1.94 mg NaCl, sodium chloride 31.6 ug K2Cr2O7, potassium dichromate 6.23 ug KI, potassium iodide 4.75 ug (NH4)6Mo7O24·4H2O, ammonium molybdate tetrahydrate Pour part B into part A, mix, adjust pH with 1N KOH or 1M H3PO4. Since I have nowhere to use this yet I actually made a 5X concentrate and added a few drops nitric acid to stabilize (pH3.5). I'll dilute it 1 + 4water and pH when my clone is ready for nutes (I want to see just how deadly it realy is.) Anyone want to buy some government tomato leaves for $5/g? NIST Tomato Leaves EDIT: I guess this HTML doesn't know greek (u=micro) | ||
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| | #24 | ||
| Senior Gardener Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: pennsylvania
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Went to two hydro places yesterday, one in jersey and one closer to home. Had a look at the HIDs, wasn't too impressed with the intensity of the 400W MH but it was really hot. Held my hand 3 feet from it and could still feel the heat. So. I'm thinking that we should make arrangements for some fluoros at the sides. Maybe just 4 to 6, one in each corner and a pair in mid back all vertical about 12-16 inches above the floor. Also had a look at the ingredients in the GH and other nutes. Nothing special there except quite a bit of chelating agent. I think I'll add some EDTA to my recipe, not sure how much yet. So, sputnick, how are the plans coming? All I need to do now is calculate the flow rates for bubbles, recirc, and exhaust, and get some size info on the control tank and plant buckets. Think we'll be ready to build by semester break? Since I've heard that Emery is slow and pricey, I think we should look into Seeds Direct. I'm thinking either Sensi Star or Mazar but they have some others that look good too, like Chronic, and White Widow, and... Why don't you pick the strain? Sput, if you checked out our grow thread you'll see that they're getting rather big. By the looks of it now, I'm thinking that our new box can probably hold only 3-4 mature plants without crowding...but this of course means less bud per grow. So, what are our design goals??? | ||
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| | #25 | ||
| Junior Gardener Join Date: Oct 2002
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Well. i am still not sure where the cab is going to be or what the requirements for it are. Is it still going to be in the bedroom? is it going to provide light to the room? pretty important things to know. If we use bifold doors i will have to figure out some way to hang them so the load is not on the interior set of doors. the frames that hold the plexiglass are going to be relatively weak by nature. so i'll have to think about that one. hmm. back to work. more to come soon. And for the shade. should be simple. buy one of those internal spring roll type shades. laminate a piece of mylar or a space blanket to it. and voila. not perfectly efficient because of the light that will get around the edges but better then nothing. The chelating agent provides for easier absorbtion of the metals for the plant? or stabilizes them? | ||
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| | #26 | ||
| Junior Gardener Join Date: Oct 2002
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | bifolds made of plywood. not sure what i want for the frame of the glass door. if its strong enough i can screw the bifolds right to the frame. the glass doors will seal on 1x1 inside the box. the seem between the doors will seal with a piece of luan i figure. i can screw it to the inside of one of the door frames then close the other door onto it. line the whole thing with sponge tape stuff. will be almost perfectly sealed. er....is this what we are looking at so far? 1m x 1m x 2m {edit} only one bifold is shown | ||
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| | #27 | ||
| Junior Gardener Join Date: Oct 2002
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | i wont be able to write up the actual measurements for the cuts without knowing the material, thickness, etc. With the glass doors like that. should we increase the wattage? how often will the doors be open? how will that affect growth? all the effort tuning the light output would be useless. | ||
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| | #28 | ||
| Seedling Join Date: Apr 2002
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Why don't you try using 1-way mirrors? Or some sort of mylar-mirror tinting product on one side of the glass. I would also reccomend Acrylic, as I think it's cheaper, more shatter resistant, easier to work with, and is a better insulater of heat (though you might want it to conduct heat). And you can easily drill acrylic, but glass requires some serious tools. I don't enjoy workin with glass. I think the only reason you use glass is if you have to work with high temps, like a lens for the light. You can always use reflective spraypaint on the back of the glass. I know when I lived in florida you could buy mylar that stuck to glass, it's supposed to reflect like 90% of the light, and I you can see through it very easily. I bet it's pretty cheap if you can find a commercial source, though you may have to buy alot. I think the car mirror tinting stuff is what I'd use. Ocelaris Last edited by Lizzie Borden : 01-13-2003 at 06:54 PM. | ||
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| | #29 | ||
| Junior Gardener Join Date: Oct 2002
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | the doors will be acrylic. guess i just used glass as a generic term. glass isnt too bad to work with though. but plastic would be safer anyway. as for one way glass i have to look into that. not sure if its what we want. also, i am not entirely certain what europa wants in terms of light transmittance when the doors are open. have to wait for him on that one.also. when the doors are shut we still want to have as much light as possible getting back to the plants so if the glass didnt have a very* high reflectivity it wouldnt be right. and reflective spray paint on the back? not sure what you mean. thanks for the input Oceleris. | ||
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| | #30 | ||
| Seedling Join Date: Apr 2002
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![]() | by reflective paint, I meant that home depot sells "metallic silver colored paint" which you can spray on the outside to reflect the light back into the chamber. I think the idea I was trying to convey, is that if you put some sort of reflective material on the outside, you could keep most of your light in when the doors were closed, but still see through... I believe that "tinting shops " car hotrod places, or somethnig like that sell sticky mylar that is actually rated by transmittance. Like I think certain states have different rules. I thought florida becaues it was so sunny you could have 100% reflective tinting, but in like NY where it's not as bright all the time, 30% is legal, because the cops want to be able to see you when they walk upto your car. Have you considered enclosing the lights in one of those "bake a round" glass tubes, or "hurricane glasses" ? I've thought about making a blow through, so that the air goes right through the chamber, but never actually interacts with the chamber air. I've attached a crude drawing, Ideally the glass light chamber would have aluminum ducting on either side of the glass tube. And then a fan one one side would draw air out... there's a discussion with better pictures here: http://www.hempcultivation.com/420/s...threadid=33966 Best, Ocelaris | ||
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