g1ithc

Just got a cool tube, and had a couple questions before installing it if that's alright with all of you guys


Theoretical:

In a large grow room, with a 1000w HPS inside of a cooltube being sucked at the socket end with a 50cfm blower, and the otherside open to draw air from the grow, would it risk cracking the glass from inadequate airflow?


Whats the minimum CFM required for a cooltube to not crack (In a large room)

The cooltube isn't needed to keep the room temperature down, But rather the plant canopy temperature... Will 50cfm be enough to not crack the glass of the cooltube?

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hydrolized

50 cfm is fine. The glass is tempered and can actually go upwards of 500F, just like tempered glassware made for cooking in the oven, so I don't think it would break even with no cooling at all, if you left the ends open or not.

The more CFM you can get through the tube the cooler your room with be though. Around 50 CFM will keep your hood 10F above ambient.

toshiba

cool tubes suck, they throw light so uneven

get a real reflector and dump that thing off at the good will

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g1ithc

Exellent, this is what I was hoping,

All the information I was finding recommended large fans (250-500+cfm) BUT reading into it, it was because of ROOM temperature, no mention anywhere of the cooltube glass needing high CFM to not crack

I'm able to run the 1k with NO cooltube and room temperatures are great. However top of the canopy gets to 90+ degrees.

I also haven't seen anyone else use a cooltube for controlling canopy temperature alone. Has anyone seen this before?

I hope the 50cfm cuts it and the glass doesn't crack.

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Futuregrower

A small fan, blowing straight across the canopy between the light and plants, tends to keep it cooler. This is due to an air-curtain effect that tends to keep the heat above the moving air.
I havent' used the cooltube, myself, but that's how it works with other reflectors.

The glass in the tube, if it is tempered, can go to 500 degrees,or even more, like hydrolized says. It can withstand a 250* thermal gradient- the difference in temperature from one end to the other.

So, don't put 1 end of the hot tube in ice water, and it should be fine.

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The futures here, we are it, we are on our own....Singing Ashes, ashes all fall down......

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First Grow! Twofer, Mandalas "Satori" and KC Brain's "Northern Lights Special"
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g1ithc

if my logic is correct...

having a cooltube installed in addition to having a fan blowing between the canopy and the light would work more efficiently (if marginally) for controlling canopy temperature than just a fan blowing inbetween the canopy and light alone without the cooltube. That way both the cooltube separates heat, and then the fan blowing inbetween the tube and canopy could seperate the leftover radiant heat.

does that sound logical? lol

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Futuregrower

That is what I meant. "the light" in this case refers to the light bulb inside the cooltube.

__________________
~~ The Once And FutureGrower
The futures here, we are it, we are on our own....Singing Ashes, ashes all fall down......

"I inhaled, frequently," Senator Obama said before being elected President "That was the point."

First Grow! Twofer, Mandalas "Satori" and KC Brain's "Northern Lights Special"
http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydro...kc-brains.html

Caution! (Do not stop on tracks). Grow 2

LINK to a great way to search, written by Burndt

g1ithc

Alright it's in place. The 50cfm blower is sucking a lot more at the end than I imagined it could.

I'll let you all know if it ever cracks!

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