| | #14 | ||
| Got bugs? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
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I was freaking over the spin of the electric meter when I first started growing. I had a spare water heater line available for 240V and I just knew that I could save some dough by switching from 120V. I just became more efficient at burning watts (which is what that meter is counting). Glad to have been of some assistance. Good luck with your grow. buzzmobile ![]() | ||
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| | #15 | ||
| Seedling Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Grassy knoll
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![]() | When someone said negligible... On paper it uses the same amount of kilowatt hours but... at higher voltage and lower amperage the theory is the ballast runs cooler and hence very slightly more efficient. The temp of the light is of course the same. Like you said it at least saves on ballast life. I also have a voltage switchable ballast and I'm thinking about the switch to 220v for this reason. A circuit whether 120 or 220 is rated at the breaker for amperage and of course the breaker box is limited to your incoming service of 100-200 amps in most homes. So with a single 20a 220 circuit you could run up to 4 1k lights vs 2 on a 120v 20a circuit. Better yet I will likely make it a 30a circuit for a little more head room.
__________________ My Grow Room | ||
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