| | #21 | ||
| ☯ Lookin' for Zεn ☯ ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: In the Redwoods
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I've been reading some more and so far I've got Arnuld's recipe, 15% milk/h20, neem oil, and baking soda with insecticide soap (thanks buzzmobile). I suppose I'll just go down the list until something works.. OD: I know you have the same climate as I do, and this PM only came up after a week into flowering. I'd prefer to stay away from things I wouldn't want sprayed on my buds. I think I read that you used a dehum in your greenhouse.. but you found neem oil to work late in flowering? Dehum isn't really an option for me, but I'm thinking that the night humidity might be high relative to the day. Perhaps a switch to lights on during night and off during the day might help? The more I read the more grim it seems.. and if I get mold in my bud it's game over.
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| | #22 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I like the idea switching to night lights, it will keep it warmer during the coldest part of the day. If you can raise the temps to high 60's and lower the RH to 50% you'll get rid of mold danger. I'm not sure yet, what it takes to eliminate the PM problem but I'm gonna find out. PM likes it dry. Just a baking soda spray with some soap for a spreader works but you have to be really consistent.... every couple of days. And thoroughly. PM is a bitch! I found this: Powdery mildew growth stops when temperatures are above 25°C (77°F). ![]() Peace- OD
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| | #23 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | and this: For indoor plants, disease management includes gathering up and destroying fallen leaves, reducing relative humidity around plants, and spraying with a fungicide. In New York State, some products that may be used to treat powdery mildew on indoor plants include: sulfur (Lilly Miller RTU-MPF*), lime sulfur (Lilly Miller Polysulfide), potassium bicarbonate (Milstop or Remedy), jojoba oil, (E-Rase), Bacillus subtillis(Serenade Garden RTU*) and some products containing the active ingredients: neem oil or thiophanate-methyl. Wettable sulfur is known to cause injury to some plants. Check labels for cautions about sensitive plants. If thiophanate-methyl does not seem to be controlling the disease, do not continue to use it. In some cases the fungus is able to develop a resistance to this chemical.
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| | #24 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Thanks OD, I have to spread some rep around before giving you more . I think I read that last bit somewhere as well.So just for my own reference: 1. Be anal about dead plant matter and lower plant pruning 2. Keep airflow strong, especially on the undersides of the plants 3. Absolutely NO standing water 4. Temps warm, humidity low 5. Use a spray of some kind at least once a week I was talking to Rev and he was telling me he actually sprays sulfur on the walls and in the waste trays (not on the plants themselves), locks up the grow room and lets it warm up and get all stinky. I don't think he actually has a PM problem but this sounds like a good way to atleast try and stem off the problem on the surfaces around the plants, while perhaps using something gentler and less stinky on the plants themselves..
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| | #25 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Interesting method the Rev. is using. Might help Booty. I wonder how long the sulfur burning thing lasts? Seems like a lot of money and trouble unless it's a once a month thing. I'm gonna see what happens in the new grow house this season. I'll break out the bacillus subtilis this year. Peace- OD
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| | #26 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | if i could get the temps everywhere where the plants are, including mothers to around 77F+, that might work. im a hydro grower, not sure how i would remove all that water from the environment, it is essential to the system. ive heard of the sulfur being made into a paste, spray instead of burning it. i just never did the sulfur again after i tried it already once. i dont think anything is ever going to get rid of the pm in one application, except for total eradication of foliage and plants, there will always be multiple applications of something. it might be the particular strain of pm that happens to like mj, but whatever i have is extremely stubborn and comes back all the time, the key is to spray every inch of every plant. the only way to be absolutely sure of this would be to take 1 or 2 cuttings of a plant, throw everything else away. spray and watch the 1 or 2 plants until no signs of pm or anything, meanwhile you have plenty of time to clean and sterilize the grow areas.
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| | #27 | ||||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This is from that link you posted Bob: Quote:
This too I haven't been doing: Quote:
Want to try Arnuld's recipe but I've been using the soy oil.. would using sulfur soon after severely burn my plants? I could spray them down with water first but the oil is pretty resilient at sticking (though not killing the fungi) and I doubt it would do much good. Definitely moving on to a new remedy though..
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| | #28 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | yeah, you are going to have to wait, i think at least a couple weeks before spraying with something new.
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| | #29 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | 2 weeks.. yeah that wouldn't work.. not with the mold returning every other day. Would it be damaging to go to another oil, like neem? I'm assuming the baking soda+soap would be too harsh as well.
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| | #30 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Be careful LG, you can burn your plants. Peace- OD
__________________ ![]() There really is no right way to grow, you have to resonate with a style and learn what you can, tweak it to your own style and raise the bar each grow... OD '07 | ||
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