Lizzie Borden

If my pile has air intake at the bottom and I also turn it, will that speed it up? Or should I not turn my "aerated static pile"?

organic

Diggin' on the 50-cent description, am I right?

If you turn it, it will go even faster. There is virtually no limit to the oxygen the pile can use, excepting if the air is cold and it keeps the temperature down too much.

For my farm I am moving towards using a force-aerated static pile, that is set up pretty much the same way, but with a blower attached to the air pipes. It delivers a few minutes of air at set intervals (say 4x/hour) which is actually more efficient than turning. But it's a little much for someone making a little compost for their grow room

Slim

Thanks BD & O, that clears up a Shytload!

-I read that coffee grinds are acidic, is that a potential problem or not a big deal?
-Are you going to go into pH management guidelines?
-Is there an optimal temperature range of the compost?



Slim

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organic

I like this format, short lesson followed by questions from the class

Yes, they are acidic, but unless you use a lot of them or alongside a lot of other primarily acidic materials they shouldn't pose too much of a problem. A slightly acidic to neutral environment is beneficial.
By the way, worms LOVE coffee - just like people. The stimulant effect works on them too, and they tend to reproduce faster in a coffee-rich environment. Interesting, yeah?

I will now that you asked! Later on when I post some charts on composting materials I'll try to add in basic pH info for the entries.
As with figuring the C:N ratio, you don't have to be all that precise, just keep it in mind.
The optimal pH for the range of beneficial decomposers (bacteria & fungi) is in between 6 & 7; the pH must be in between 5.5 and 8 for decomposition to occur.

Most definitely, that would be between 135 and 160 F. Below 135, the heat is not enough to kill pathogens and weed seeds, and above 160 it tends to sterilize the pile by killing off too many of the beneficial decompositional organisms. (When this happens the pile is recolonized mostly by opportunistic organisms, which tend to be undesirables.)

The "optimum" temperature is about 150.

K? K!
______

organic

material________C:N ratio

food scraps___15:1
alfalfa hay___18:1
grass clippings___19:1
rotted manure___20:1
vegetable trimmings___25:1
oak leaves___26:1
leaves___varies from 35:1 to 85:1
peat moss___58:1
corn stalks___60:1
straw___80:1
pine needles___60:1 to 110:1
farm manure___90:1
alder sawdust___134:1
weathered sawdust (3 yrs.)___142:1
newspaper___170:1
douglas fir bark___491:1
sawdust___625:1

catawbagreens

I just found this thread and am logging on to track it. The idea of using drainpipe in the pile is way cool. Some ?'s
1]It's Dec. and I plant outdoors in late April early May, do I have time to get some horse manure worked up for transplant time?
2]Will adding store bought compost {cow} speed up process time?
3] I grow in a fairly heavy clayey loam, should I use a higher % of compost to soil? I'm talken carolina red chirt here.
It's heads like you folks that keep me reading these posts, keep up the good work!

Do your duty and vote out a drug warrior

organic

thanks for the kind words


1) Yep. But you'll have to insulate and cover the pile until the weather warms up. Straw bales are probably the best method.

the composting process should take from 1-3 months.

2) a little. it will help get it started, but for the most part the organisms needed for the decompositional process are already present in the material. It's just up to you to create an ideal environment for them to proliferate.

3) Yes, use as much compost as you can in that situation. I have wet heavy clay soil outside where I am, and the only cost-effective way to lighten the soil is through compost and incorporating cover crops.

Organic material, of which compost provides the most nutritive value, is the magic cure-all for undesirable soil qualities. It adds structure and water retention to sandy soil; it increases drainage and lightens clay soil.

lilmama

Could you, shoule you add saw dust to a hydro medium?

lil

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Xzoomd

Im starting to picture the aeration tube with a pvc handle for turning a larger sized plastic garbage can. Can would be perforated with the inside lined with screen. The can mounted on say 4' 2x4s yoked out & clamped. The end of the pvc having a reducer or something...same on the handle side, to keep it steady when turning. This way I can use my compost pile material in the winter hmmmm. Think a pvc handle would hold up?
Also, think it would work while not having the recommended 2.5-3 cu. ft. of material?
Great thread O

Xmd

ButterflyDreams

No. Sawdust is not very stable until it is broken down. Are you thinking of mixing it with the claypellets?

I'd think it would hold way too much moisture and probably make the pH run amuk.

There are no stupid questions except those not asked.

Smiles,
BD

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