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Old 05-16-2008, 10:37 PM   #1
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cameron52 is beginning to sprout.
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In your opinion, what's the best organic fertelizer?
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Old 05-16-2008, 10:52 PM   #2
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Home made worm castings.

Worms fed on a primary diet of organic wheat grass. Then used in a tea, brewed for 18hrs (no more than 24 ) with organic, unsulphered, black strap molasses.

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Old 05-17-2008, 11:38 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by komet View Post
Home made worm castings.

Worms fed on a primary diet of organic wheat grass. Then used in a tea, brewed for 18hrs (no more than 24 ) with organic, unsulphered, black strap molasses.

Komet, please offer your recipe... I'm interested... how big a batch do you make at one time? If you wouldn't mind..

Peace- OD
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:50 AM   #4
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Komet, please offer your recipe... I'm interested... how big a batch do you make at one time? If you wouldn't mind..

Peace- OD
and pics of your "homemade worn casting generator".
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:03 PM   #5
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Sorry, I missed this one. Lucky tripps reminded me with a thanks.

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outdoors
Komet, please offer your recipe... I'm interested... how big a batch do you make at one time? If you wouldn't mind..

Peace- OD
No problem OD. The recipe I've had the best results with (bacteria dominant, not fungi) was as follows:

Per 20ltrs of water, undiluted:

- 2 handfulls of Nutri-Blend compost (Llama poo would work, I'm sure )

- 1 handfull of worm castings

- 60 mls fish fert with fulvic acid (bacteria)

- 1 'dollop' of liquid humus

- 1/2 of an apple. Chopped, not mashed. (bacteria)

- 2 tea bags of organic green tea.

- 1tbsp of OBS molasses.

I also add something called "Microforce 420 Microbes" It's a product you can buy here in Oz which has task specific bacteria/fungi.

But to be honest. These days I just use the worm castings and molasses. I'm just lazy to do the more complicated recipes lately.

Quote:
squirrel_master
and pics of your "homemade worn casting generator".
Here is a pic of the worm setup I use. Mainly wheatgrass and egg shells. After they have been feeding for six months, I move the scraps to one side so the worms 'migrate' over to the other side so I can collect the castings. Ghetto, but it works if you just want to use small amounts for tea brewing and not soil amendment.


komet's "Brewer" Careful now...patent pending.

Drill holes into the lid of a container and line it with something like shade cloth. Don't use a too finer of mesh (stocking) or it will impede the transfer of microbes. Use the traditional blue stones. Those new ceramic one's create 'mist' bubbles which can shatter fungal hyphae.




Beginning of the brew. Add a water heater to speed up the brew but try not to go over 95F. Or as in the words of Profound, it will "Smell like chit mon"


12 hours after starting the brewing process. Should have a sweet, earthy smell but not smell 'rank'. Plenty of foam and that sweet smell will tell you it's working.


I just use the "Brewer" to keep things clean. You don't want rotting pieces of apple sitting on the top soil. Pretty easy to see how it was made from the pics.

__________

Note: In the above post I mentioned that you shouldn't brew for more than 24hrs. I say this because most of us wouldn't make teas exceeding 10-20ltrs. But brewing time really depends on the size of your container. Basically because the larger the container then the more available oxygen for the micro heard. You want to brew for 12 hours per 10 ltrs of water. But their are so many variables like available carbos to bacteria/fungi and available oxygen. Really you just have to try your own and 'eye-ball' it.



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The red line is oxygen concentration in the water (in ppm or mg oxygen per L of water), and the green line is the active biology in the tea (micrograms of active bacteria and active fungi per ml of tea). When the organisms are growing the most rapidly, activity peaks (after about 16 hours in most brewers, although about hour 8 in small brewers).

The reason for the peak is that the microorganisms have maximized use of foods, and after that peak, their activity slows down, because they are running out of food. Activity usually stabilizes about 24 hours, so it is safe to take the tea out of the max aeration brewer and put it into a sprayer tank that has just re-circulation.

If the aeration is turned off, it typically takes some time for the organisms to use up the air, and plunge into anaerobic conditions. A truly stable tea would only slowly use up oxygen and go anaerobic, usually in about 5 to 6 hours. But if the tea is not in a stable condition, then when aeration is turned off, oxygen levels will plunge within mere minutes to low, anaerobic levels.
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organic-fertilizer-00.jpg   organic-fertilizer-03.jpg   organic-fertilizer-04.jpg  

organic-fertilizer-06.jpg   organic-fertilizer-07.jpg   organic-fertilizer-02_oxygn_actvty.jpg  

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Old 05-20-2008, 03:14 PM   #6
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Why I use wheatgrass? Like the chart attached says, it contains all 21 minerals. Not much else out there which will provide everything.

Not just for your worms though . Grow it, get yourself a juicer and drink it yourself...you'll feel like a million bucks. Also full of hemoglobin - natures version of a blood transfusion.
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:40 PM   #7
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you can use fresh urine mixed at 10 parts water 1 part urine for a good source of nutrients, and it's free. just don't let the urine sit, always use fresh when it's sterile.
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:25 PM   #8
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Excellent process and thank you so much for descriptions! What is the other "gizmo" in the bucket? Opposite the blue tubing. Did you put that white container with the holes in it into the "tea pot?" Did you put your "tea ingredients inside that white container before you put it in the tea pot?

Questions? I got 'em. Just cause it looks simple doesn't mean it is. Take it from a woman who's been reading directions for weeks now and looking at pictures that are supposed to tell the story.

Peace- OD
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:46 PM   #9
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Hey OD,
Not to hijack the thread but there are also other options where you don't have to make the compost. Check out bountea.com and watch the video "the secret is in the soil"
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:58 PM   #10
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Excellent process and thank you so much for descriptions! What is the other "gizmo" in the bucket? Opposite the blue tubing. Did you put that white container with the holes in it into the "tea pot?" Did you put your "tea ingredients inside that white container before you put it in the tea pot?
Hey, OD.

That gizmo is a water heater, I set my temps to around 90F. Some say you should tag your brewing temperatures to your soil temperatures, which I used to do. But I have found keeping things a little warmer speeds up the brewing process.

Yup, I put all my ingredients into the 'tea-bag' which then goes into the bucket. Always a good idea to shake the tea bag a little while brewing to move the ingredients around.



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