choader

Seems like you may need some odor control with that!

Choader

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tundra_grow

ohhh yeah, at first I was scared of oders. so I made sure that Plenty of soil went on top of the fish. so far I havent smelled too much other than the mold that grew on top of the soil. I removed the mold, and havent had any since!

transplanting will let thr oders out!

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poor eskimos can't grow outside...

outdoors

Hey Cecil_b...
Glad to see OP rounded you up, thanks for the contribution.
I gotta argue your point on the water "extenders". I've been using "Watersorb" in my garden for over 2 years. I live in an area that gets no rainfall during my growing season. Oh, occassionaly we might get a sprinkle but nothing to count on. Therefore all the water that my entire garden gets is supplied by me either thru drip irrigation or hand watering.
The "Watersorb" has allowed me to extend the amount of water I need to use. I use a very small amount - a teaspoon full in a 5 gal. pot is plenty. It means that I just don't have to worry about potted plants getting watered everyday!.

Peace -
Outdoors
So... there's my

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outdoors

'Evening OP -

Just wondering. Are ya planning on making some kind of a chart with the data? Or maybe you don't know yet how the data will be used. I'd be into helping with that project, I could learn a lot. I think I'll do it for my own use for the time being.
I've just taken some time to read thru a few mixes and copied a few for my personal filing pleasure. Trying to do comparisons was when I thought a nice spreadsheet could be handy.

Peace-
OD

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greenmagic

I use

Gernal Miracle grow potting soil i get from home depot
1 - 1.5 cup perlite per gallon of soil
1/4 - 1/5 cup bone meal per gallon of soil, mixed in throughly

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What a wise man.....

Quasi

50% top soil..or schultz professional...not the preferted or water retaining polymer stuff.

25% perlite

25% acrillite...schultz aquatic plant soil

an air/paramagnetic layer of lavarock about 8"-10" down.

8 tabs of mycorrhizal fungii per 5 gal. bucket...3 tabs in veg

rare earth...50% silicate clay, 18% humic acid from leonardite...if I don't mix it into the ferts...I will simply give it a lite sprinkling as a topdressing.. it doen't take much.

occasional fulvic acid feedings...same with the earth juice catalyst

old mj roots to help feed the mycor if I just use top soil opposed to the schultz..since the mycor feeds off organic material.

I use the mycor...altho I use salts to fert..and when I mix the higher ppm in mid to late flowering...I'm not sure if it has a negative effect on the mycor...but I'm almost sure that some remains..since I get better yield with than w/o. It's my opinion that all organic growers should add mycorrhizal fungii to their substrate...and salt peeps should at least try it.

The acrillite I got from Delta...it has excellent water/oxygen retaining properties and ....it doesn't float like perlite....I've experienced anerobic conditions in the lower levels of the bucket reusing them after a long salt flush ...w/o dumping and remixing the soil/perlite mix..(yea-yea, no excuse for laziness....ssssh )....because of the upward perlite drift ....one day my cheap ass will buy some everclear...bla-bla

all I can really point out is that I didn't see mycorrizal being listed...and ..anyone with any info on the effects of salts on mycor...please chime in.

Old_Phart

Say OD, Just wanted a thread of soil recipes in the advanced grow guide. Don't know yet how it will come together.
OP

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SEXING-MALE/FEMALE PREFLOWERS~OLD PHART'S FIRST INDOOR GROW~OLD PHART'S 1ST CLONE GROW~OLD PHART'S 1st HYDRO GROW
OLD PHART'S 2ND HYDRO GROW~OLD PHART's WW GROW PART ONE~OLD PHART'S WW GROW...continued

Fryballs

In my defense Cecil_b, one of my grow spots is about 2 hours and 25 minutes away from my house.(And several more aren't much closer) My growbuddy and I are both required to be there as supplying water from the nearest source is easy, but two people are required, as there is no reservoir at the site. I already have some primative irrigation setups at other grow spots by various means most suited to the surroundings and availability of water. But with this site, irrigation just isn't appropriate.
We figure on only having to maintenance the plants once a week for most of the veg stage, so we would like to be able to water only once a week, (every 7 days exactly) which isn't feasible without the water crystals as the temperature around this growsite was almost 90deg F every day this last week, and it's friggin' MARCH!!! The plants aren't even going in-ground for another 2 weeks.
With the ratio of water crystals to soil we have. We figured complete dry-out at about 12-13 days, or 9-11 days if it's been extremely warm (95-100+). Which still gives us ample time to return and water, even if we should happen to come one day late.
By reducing the total number of trips to the growsite, we not only reduce our over all costs; gas, tires, time, energy. But each trip saved is one less chance of being spotted, arrested, and prosecuted.
Trust me, I did my homework long before attempting to bet my crop on something like this. Although I could see someone going a little too long between waterings and totally destroying their plants. I'd advise anyone using water crystals to become familiar with them and how they will react in your environment, or pay with the possible death of your plants.

*sorry Mods if this is considered an innapropriate reply in this thread...move/delete if necessary.

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stoney_2769

Guess I'm lucky I have rich, black dirt where I live. I dig a hold about a foot deep and add a couple inches of gravel and top off with any generic top soil, sometimes I mix in a little peat moss in my top soil. The reason I use the gravel is to help drainage. I grow on hillsides and in bottoms and have had problems with waterlogged plants from time to time. Plus the soil here packs pretty hard when overly wet or when it gets too dry. The gravel and top soil gives the plant a fighting chance while it is young and developing. I rarely add much fertizlizer during the year and have used shrubbery spikes to slow feed for the whole season. Occasionally I'll mist the plant with Miracle Gro but havent noticed a whole lot of difference. I 've had good luck in the past with heavy yields and potent smoke from Early Girl, and Afgan strain and seed from good old compressed Mexican. Don't discount the commericial Mexican herb it generally comes from good genes its just poorly cured (Hot Tin Roof) and compressed for shipping. Some of the best homegrown I've smoked was bagseed from some pressed weed that a guy couldnt hardly give away.

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Old_Phart

Say all,
Let's get back to the beginning. Please post yer "proven" soil mix. If you have used it and it worked fer ya...it's proven. Let's not debate each others method's here. Eventually, the recipes will go into the advanced grow guide so that newbs can "pick their poison" from proven recipes. So please post it so that individuals can read it and be able to copy it for their own use.
OP

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SEXING-MALE/FEMALE PREFLOWERS~OLD PHART'S FIRST INDOOR GROW~OLD PHART'S 1ST CLONE GROW~OLD PHART'S 1st HYDRO GROW
OLD PHART'S 2ND HYDRO GROW~OLD PHART's WW GROW PART ONE~OLD PHART'S WW GROW...continued