bluecheese

Yes, I'm using perlite & vermiculite mixed (as always) and have NEVER had a problem in veg. I know the full strength dosage is way too high.

I flushed each plant with a gallon of un-pH'd RO water this morning and measured the pH of the runoff for each. Two were at 6.1 and one was at 6.0.

No new spots to report, so I'll just feed them 0-5-10+10 magical on Sunday with a pH of 5.7. I am foliar feeding them epsom salt a few times a day.

They'll be 7 weeks old tomorrow & have alternating nodes. Clones have already been cut, so I'll be putting them in flower soon - sick or not!

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bluecheese

Well I've been foliar feeding the Epsom salts every time I see them (that was 4x a day in veg) and there are no new spots. All the upper fan leaves are perfect in color, they just want to curla little.

I'm being hypersensitive about the curl - I've had plants curl much worse. I just want perfect plants!

Anyway, I stuck them in flowering last night - the HPS went off at 8A for their first dark period. As I moved them, I did notice some calcium stores on a few branches!

My plan is to continue to foliar feed them once or twice a day for the first 10 days to 2 weeks of flowering. Next feeding is tonight which will be 0-5-10+10 magical.

Thanks for all your help folks!

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aussie grow

just a little confused are you saying that you had calcium toxicity that was causing the mg lockout

bluecheese

No aussie, I think the calcium stores are good. They indicate to me that the MagiCal is working.

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aussie grow

Ok thanks mate, I have the same symptoms as you thats why i was just making sure

starting epsom salt folier feed today

Freakshow68

High Cheese! How are they looking and what have you done?

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bluecheese

They look great & went into flowering a couple of days ago.

Every time I see them, they get a foliar feed of ES. That was at least 4 times a day in veg & now is 2 - 3 times a day in flower. I'll stop that in a week though.

I flushed a gallon of RO water through each one & measured the runoff to be 6.0 to 6.1. That was one "feeding".

Three or four days later I gave them 0-5-10+10 ml MagiCal pH'd to 5.7 and that's the last feeding so far.

So, I've flushed, foliar fed & lowered the pH, besides adjusting the nutes. Here's a group shot of them the day they went into flowering.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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BCGuerillaGrowa

Good informative thread. Recently found one of my outdoor ladies with brown spots, no curling but they might be now. I'll do a foliar spray with some kelp and epsom .. and take some pics of the spotting. My girls are going to be VERY thirsty after the past couple days.

Peace

yingyangsoup

I happened to notice your temperatures are 65f and humidity is at 75%.

with 0-5-10 ml/gal, according to my nutrient calculator is about 735 ppm @.7 conversion

With your current room conditions, it is preventing the plants from transpiring. Here is why....


First off, Transpiration is the process by which moisture is carried through plants from roots to small pores on the underside of leaves, where it changes to vapor and is released to the atmosphere. Transpiration is essentially evaporation of water from plant leaves. Transpiration also includes a process called guttation, which is the loss of water in liquid form from the uninjured leaf or stem of the plant, principally through water stomata.


•Temperature:Transpiration rates go up as the temperature goes up, especially during the growing season, when the air is warmer due to stronger sunlight and warmer air masses. Higher temperatures cause the plant cells which control the openings (stoma) where water is released to the atmosphere to open, whereas colder temperatures cause the openings to close.
•Relative humidity: As the relative humidity of the air surrounding the plant rises the transpiration rate falls. It is easier for water to evaporate into dryer air than into more saturated air.
•Wind and air movement: Increased movement of the air around a plant will result in a higher transpiration rate. This is somewhat related to the relative humidity of the air, in that as water transpires from a leaf, the water saturates the air surrounding the leaf. If there is no wind, the air around the leaf may not move very much, raising the humidity of the air around the leaf. Wind will move the air around, with the result that the more saturated air close to the leaf is replaced by drier air.






The end result is that water vapor is not evaporating, so water is not being drawn up from the root zone...and neither are any nutrients. If nutrients are not being taken up, than developing fruits are not getting the food they need to be healthy. This is exactly why high humidity will cause blossom end rot in fruiting tomatoes just like a Calcium deficiency. It is another reason why it is so important to keep box fans and oscillating fans in the garden area to keep the air circulating.<<<<<<<<<<I think what happened to you.***



So, evaporation controls plant transpiration. High temperatures and low humidity therefor both cause fast transpiration. Fast transpiration means your plants will be taking up and using lots of water (and nutrients). This is fine, unless you were feeding your plants strong to begin with. Your plants can only handle so much fertilizer within a specific period of time.



So if you now have warm temperatures, low humidity, and fast transpiration rates you may find your plants are using a little too much fertilizer a little too quickly. Leaf tip burn is usually a sign of this. Under these circumstances you can feed your plants with a weaker nutrient solution.

bluecheese

yingyangsoup you can theorize all you want. I just know the plants look good, are drinking and are growing.

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