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Hey folks, I'm getting some (perceived) mixed messages around my garden and was wondering if ya'll could help me out, as I'm trying to gauge the appropriate strength of my next feeding. Most pertinent info: Clones in Hempy, week and a half in, been feeding with 1/3 ultra hard well water 2/3 RO water, feedings have been 1/4 tsp GH 3 part with a 1/4 tsp Cal Mag thrown in every other feeding. Feedings have been about every other day, or when cups are light and rockwool is no longer super spongey. There was a big PH issue last week that did damage but the issue has since been remedied. Main issues I'm seeing: 1. Light green - yellow/wilting of lower leaves, (here is pictured the only unhealthy leaf on my healthiest clone) 2. Light green/yellowing of newer growth 3. Burned tips on new growth, and ram horns on one or two clones There are a handful of lower leaves that have necrosis and the like, but I am going to attribute those to the severe PH problem that occurred near the start, and that these leaves are simply not able to be recovered and will eventually need to be pruned. My thoughts when seeing these issues: The yellowing and especially the lower yellowing/wilting makes me think deficiency, perhaps not enough N or Mg? Yet despite this there are those burned tips and the occasional ram horn, which lends credence to the opposite -- too much nutes. On top of that there are a few clones in which the new growth is DARK green. My feedings are very light, especially for hempy -- 1/4 tsp of each GH is minimal. So.. perhaps it's a problem with the hard water? Perhaps the PH is still being ironed out? (the runoff has been coming at 6.3-6.5 on them) Perhaps nutes are being locked out on some while not on others? Or perhaps it's simply the different genetics responding in their own way to the feedings. That first picture is of the Headband, which has been healthy throughout all of this and is perhaps just hungry, while the others are still sensitive. Again I'm just trying to gauge what my next feeding should look like, and with these 'mixed messages' I'm seeing I'm having a hard time deciding. Thanks for any/all help. =========================================== Quote:
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Japhy, to me it looks like lock out due to high PH. I can be wrong but thats how I would have personally dealt with it. Drop PH to 5.5 on next feeding and they should green up IMO. ![]() | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Thanks Lou-dawg. Yeah that would make sense, though in that case it's interesting how varied the symptoms are from plant to plant. I do hope that if PH is the case still that there isn't buildup occurring. I'll probably do the same 1/4 tsp of each GH and Cal Mag with an especially low PH tonight. It's trickier to pinpoint with the dropper kit once you dip below 6.0 as the next color down the color gauge jumps a point down as opposed to the usual .5 increment.
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | If you can get it to 6 ph'ing it by hand before you add nutes... 1/4 tsp of each GH Grow/micro/bloom added after ph'ing it to 6 might get you where you want to go. I keep wanting to see the roots of your clones. I use clear cups with a darker 2nd outer cup, so I can peak at the roots of the youngins. ![]()
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | What an awesome idea that double stacked cup is. Will definitely do that next round.I've actually been Phing the water and storing it for a couple hours before mixing up the nutes and phing again. But the GH nutes haven't really brought the PH down further once added.. at least note significantly. I'm assuming once I'm at full strength I'll see more obvious change.. but the well water hikes that ph up pretty strong, even when mixed with RO. Thanks brotha
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Japhy_Ryder with them going for a week and a half, they are wanting some food. Do you have any foilar feed ? 1/4 teaspoon of GH Flor Grow in a 1 Quart sprayer.
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Haven't been foliar feeding EZ except for wilty Mcgee who I did just lightly foliar. Fed the girls with 5.4ish nutes and the runoff was at 6.0-6.1.. I'm going to let that sit a day or two and then I'll foliar them all for sure. Thanks for the advice.. Analog suggested the same thing. Unrelated I also discovered some algae on a handful of them, mostly the ones that are drinking slower and/or have bits of the rockwool exposed. Scooped as much tinted perlite out as I could and covered the tops with fresh perlite making sure that the rockwool was buried.
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | The perlite in my solo cups all start yellowing after a few days of being in strong light and sometimes grows green algae, once they are transplanted and leaves shadow it, it's stopped I know you are growing a different strain in a completely different environment, but i give my freshly rooted clones (right after putting into solo cup) about 350-400ppm, which with my tap takes maybe 2ml of micro and bloom a piece, i throw in a little grow after they have settled in the cups awhile and after a few waterings of just micro and bloom (i started doing this because they were hooking using equal parts of each)... my rule is if i see a root through the runoff hole, its ready for transplant (usually about a week)... sorry to ramble! the high pH and low nutrients is probably the factor, good that the runoff is 6.0 now-- and i read you wished you had a ppm reader, the one i use cost $20, i base everything off of runoff ppm and pH ![]() | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I'd be on 1-1-1 and quit with the calcium it'll raise your ph...it's a buffer and you should have plenty with your hard water I peronally use 1-1-1 with all R/O water and have had no calcium problems the N won't go up if the pH is too high ![]()
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Very good info, thanks both of you. g1ithc I think I'll grab up a cheap TDS meter after all. I was hesitant after my bad experiences with cheapo PH pens but PPM doesn't need to be as precise and it seems like there's quite a few companies that make affordable ones. The plan then is to do a bit of foliar feeding tomorrow using just RO water, and now that the PH issue is being resolved up the doseage of the feeding in a couple days by which time I will hopefully have that TDS meter.
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