CLONING MADE EASY, a pictorial guide. - Page 47

aug181983 · 06-08-2009, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lou Cypher

Pick 1 & 2), Well, now that you have your clone placed at 12/12, in couple of weeks it should look like this.

Pick 3), at 6 weeks pistils start getting red

Pick 4), and if you planted enough to look like this

Pick 5), on week 8 you should be ready to harvest 10-15 grms a clone

Pick 6), after 4 days of drying it should be combustible enough to sample

Pick 7), two weeks later, can be rolled

Pick 8), and smoked.

Well if thats not simple enough, I don't know what is.

Happy cloning.

Chapter II, coming soon.

wow , you make it look so easy and im sure it is .... ill be cloning soon thanks for the excellent write up

**Lou Cypher** · 06-08-2009, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YosemiteSam

my coco in pots did not work out well. I got stem rot in about 1/2 the clones and they did not make it.

Wonder what would happen if I left the dome off using the coco pots

Sam, sorry to hear the coco pots didn't do well buddy, was looking forward to see some other medias be as successful as soil is.

Coco pots with out dome, will not stop the wilting of the leaves since there will be not enough humidity in the air for them to absorb moisture, but it will make the coco pot dry a bit faster which might stop the stem rot.

Individual domes over each pot might work better in this case, assuming some of the water will be evaporating from the sides of the pot also, thus the pot will not be able to be in a muddy state for too long, I hope that made sense.

But going back to the simple basics with plugs will be a good idea if you need clones on schedule.

Let us know how that goes.

**Lou Cypher** · 06-08-2009, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donedolla

So its been 11 days here is a pic no sign of roots yet.
broke the rockwool of one in half and there were no roots so i stuck the cutting into a cup of water.

don, have patience my friend, some strains don't root as fast as others and for each day your environment its "off", adds another day to that waiting time.

Keep an eye on RH/temp and just let them do their thing, don't keep upsetting them by opening the lid/ moving them around etc.

It takes very long time to build enough humidity to reach 90%, so every time you open the lid you're loosing valuable rooting time.

What gives me 100% cloning success is my patience, not my skills as a gardener.

Leave them along, they know what they're doing.

**Lou Cypher** · 06-08-2009, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aug181983

wow , you make it look so easy and im sure it is ...

aug, welcome buddy.

Its like driving a car my friend, before you learned how to, it looked like really a big deal, now I'm sure you get in to one with an "ease".

Like everything else, it requires a know how and its the work behind the scenes that many fail to see.

Definitely, one has to have [the love for the plants] to grow well, but certain simple basic things don't change.

And cloning is one of them, it doesn't require much love, but needs time and Patience.

Be simple, stay with the basics, and you'll have no problem having a stable of female clones.

nigel · 06-08-2009, 12:10 PM

I took some cuttings a few weeks back while cleaning understorey,

promptly killed most of them with too much air. regrouped and with a few more, set up in aquarium.

touchy, touchy but should make it now.

problems with too much foilage, and budlet draining clones resources.

Contrast with good cuttings and tops, leaves lightened by removal of fingers, and FIM ing the budlet of just sexed girls;

and no stupid stoner opening too early. lol nigel

nigel · 06-09-2009, 10:26 AM

Post 147, you speak Lou, re cloning for mothers.

'Top will grow faster, be stronger and produce more'.

elsewhere in the garden you mention that the top is the best genetic example.

The vigour is explained by size, amount of auxin etc , because it is the highest growing tip.

Increased production by it being the tip most geared towards producing flowers.

The genetic difference between the tip, the 'mids' and the understorey cuttings; could you explain this please?

The reason i ask, is that it came up in the conspiracy, that Matt and i are possibly getting different phenotypes? off the same plant. This seems to go beyond environmental factors, and be related to where on the plants the clone was cut from.

Thanks for any help you can give. best wishes nigel

YosemiteSam · 06-09-2009, 03:06 PM

Lou...the Rapid Rooters with your method work fantastic. I actually got 100% in spite of some stoner screw ups

I just like to experiment and thought I could eliminate one transplant...in retrospect that may not even be desirable in my case. I have found that moving plants up to just slightly bigger containers every time the roots fill the pot they are in seems to provide the best growth for me...transferring or starting in bigger pots seems to stall the plants for a while.

Anyways here is a bad pic of one of the plants I cloned in the rapid rooters (and yes I do suck as a painter of walls...btw, I also took your advice on the Kilnz Premium paint with the antifungal/bacterial...good stuff)

Not a lot of contrast between the coco and the plant...sorry about that. If you look close though the growth is all of the leafs above the cut in half ones. They have been in the pot 8 days I think. So no complaints...you are the clonemeister Lou.

hunter2021 · 06-09-2009, 03:21 PM

Alright man, I saw alternating nodes and I went for it.

honestly these probably wont make it because of the tray I bought.... way too small

Walmart was outta jiffy pot trays and the garden center I went to had ones that were gigantic and small ass ones... in short I got a small one to try until I can find a bigger one.

two clones, taken from WW mother... Still waitin on the red & white diesel girls to grow up.

I used Shultz rooting powder.
<<<<<PICTURES>>>>of course

**Lou Cypher** · 06-09-2009, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nigel

The genetic difference between the tip, the 'mids' and the understorey cuttings; could you explain this please?

Hey nigel

I'm glad you asked that Q buddy, I knew finally will intrigue someones curiosity.
Had mentioned it in my first thread too, but at the time been a newbie wise ass, no one paid attention to that part of my cloning.

The top will always be the same as the plant it self, its not really a clone.
A clone will actually be, a secondary brunch and higher.

Keep topping a top of a top of a top and so on, and you will always have the same mom really, scientifically that is, physically will look like few generations went by.

So as you see there aren't "mids" or underside, rather, main/secondary/ and so on brunches.
The higher the less of its pheno the plant will carry within its DNA.

Let me see, if I can make some sense out of that.

If your clone is actually a brunch of a brunch of a brunch, there will be almost nothing looking like the donor plant.

To keep the same pheno going you have to get the main top of the plant and keep topping that top.

Best clones for a perpetual will be the secondary growth, any higher than that and your clones wont taste much as the donor plant.

**Lou Cypher** · 06-09-2009, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YosemiteSam

the Rapid Rooters with your method work fantastic.

Sam, makes me very happy to hear that man, 100% ratio its what we need so there is no waste of time and clones.

I knew you will like that paint, that stuff will kill any bacteria that will ever try to grow in there.
Have been using it for years in humid places where molds thrive.

Keep on cloning my friend.

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