So you wanna make Honey Oil??? - Tutorial

stickeyfinger · 02-22-2004, 10:22 PM

Welcome all, hope this is simple and easy to understand. This will take me a couple days to complete and post here.
This all began when I stumbled upon some "No Residue" Electronic contact cleaner and read the MSDS for it. I discovered to my amazement that it contains HEXANE! the mother of all thc soluble solevents.

This tutorial will be in two parts:
1) Canniboid extraction
2) Hexane reclaimation

Part 1 - Canniboid Extraction

You will need
* Electronic Contact Cleaner - "No Residue" (READ the MSDS on your product to ensure it lists Hexanes as the contents or one or all of the following Hexane Isomers, dimethylbutane, methyl pentane, dimethyl butane, and/or methyl pentane) It will most commonly have another ingredient for a propellent. In my experience it is tetrafluoroethane.
* Some of the ganja, whatever u got. Im using some shake, roaches and sheight I brushed off my rolling table, ashes and all. Hopefully that wont
stain the beautifull color...... but it will smoke the same either way.
* At least 2 glass mason jars with lids.
* Silkscreen and/or paper filters. I will be using both.

stickeyfinger · 02-22-2004, 10:39 PM

Empty the contents of the Contact Cleaner into a cleaned mason jar.

Carefull not to spray it everywhere, especially when the jar is getting full. I found it best to use the straw provided with the can, bent to spray down, and spray it against the wall of the mason jar. This produced the least amount of turbulence.

Ive emptied 2 - 340ml cans of this stuff into a 1 L mason jar. ***TIP*** This is a good time to clean out your bongs/pipes/bud-buster.

Once in the mason jar, dont seal the lid right away, make sure all the tetrafluoroethane has evaporated before sealing the lid tight. (try sealing the lid tight, shaking violently, release the preassure built up and repeat until there is no pressure release after the shaking)

stickeyfinger · 02-22-2004, 10:45 PM

Fill another mason jar with whatever u got, budz or fan leaf, or roaches........
Then poor the hexane into the dope. Let sit. Shake occasionally.

Mine will sit overnight, giving me time to set up my hexane condenser (part 2)
I will be back tomorrow to strain the mix and finnish up the oil.

IonAccel · 02-23-2004, 09:53 PM

What a great Thread!

Sorry to hijack your tutorial before it is finished.....but I could not wait!

I just got back from HD with a can of hexane. Plus I purchased a pyrex glass bowl and some coffee filters. And then I logged on to re-read your 'Any Chemists out there?" thread.

Then I noticed your tutorial! Thank goodness I stopped, cause your technique looks great!

I just got done emptying a 350 ml can into a quart jar, finished evaporating all " nasties" out of it. Then I took my dinner plate full of crystally trimmings from my last harvest. This will be kick ass oil, because I don't waste my time with big fan leaves or huge stems.

Crushed up the leaves, and now the broth is soaking!

I cant tell you how excited I am! It has been at least 20 years since I have smoked 'honey oil'. And even though I had good memories of the "buzz" that I caught after smoking that "goo",..........Lord only knows what other junk and poisons I was smoking to catch that buzz.

I remember buying $10 dollar vials back in the late '70s. (in a glass vial with a cork stopper) But who knows what I was huffing??
Now I know I will be smoking clean THC.

I am looking forward to the next step in this extraction process!

stickeyfinger · 02-25-2004, 01:08 AM

IonAccel - Thanks for stoppin by, glad I could help u out. What this sight is all about! The things I have learnt here would have taken several lifetimes of trial and error and it's nice to be able to return the favor.

So time to filter!

Simply wrap the silkscreen over the glass jar, then screw on the lid without the center piece. I origanlly (when I tool the pic) planned on using the silkscreen and paper filter together but it instantly plugged up. Im going to blame it on the ash from roaches in the mix. anyways the silkscreen is sufficiant for filtering, alowing lots of fluid movement. I then re-filtered it through the paper (probly not necisary unless extreme purity is of concern).

Out of approx 700 ml of hexane I originally started with, approx 500 mls of caniboid-hexane was recovered.

I did complete the hexane recovery and will post details tomorrow (its too late for me!)and complete this tutorial, I would say 90% recovery! 450 mls or so. and The Oil is the BOMB!

stickeyfinger · 02-26-2004, 12:14 AM

This step will reclaim 90%+ of the hexane for later use. It is not necissary, you can just vent off the hexane, but doing this step there are virtually no fumes that escape and I think next time (as long as I can convince the misses) I will do it in the kitchen on the stove. Plus the hexane has a very mild smell compared to iso or other alcohols and solevents.

The principle is that hexane boils at like 55 C (everything elce is much higher) and becomes a hexane vapor until it cools at which point condensing as pure hexane.

What you will need

* 2 mason jars with lids
* copper or stainless steel tubing (I am using copper 1/2 in diameter).
* Lead free solder and a propane/butane torch (I used a "windproof" mini torch lighter)
* water jug or other suitable container
* sandpaper
* silicone or other flexible type glue
* a drill and 1/2 in (or your diam pipe) drill bit
* en electric heat source+a pot for water
* some ice

First take the tubing and coil it as pictured. On either end you will have to bend a 90 so that they point down.

Second drill holes in the center of the lids, where they will be soldered to the pipe. The bottom lid that will collect the clean hexane also NEEDS a small breather hole to alow pressures to disapate(dont build a bomb!). Also drill a hole in the bottom of the water jug, where the pipe will stick through

You will want to take some sand paper to the the lid around the holes as well as the ends of the copper so that the solder will make good contact.

Next place the bottom end of the tubing through the hole drilled in the water jug and let it stick out 6-8". That hole needs to be sealed now with silicone or glue. I dont recomend glue guns (that is what I first did) as it is too brittle and springs leaks easilly, need something flexible.

Next place the lids (BOTH PIECES!) on either end of the tubing and solder them in place. (Sorry no pics of the soldering. ask if u need help). Heat up the copper tubing until it is hot enough to melt the solder when it comes in contact and keep applying until sealed all the way around.

Now get everything set up, thc/hexane in a mason jar screwed to the lid at the top of the coil, sitting in the pot of hot water on the electric heat source, an empty clean jar screwed to the bottom of the coil, and ice water in the water jug.

Apply heat to the water the thc/hex is sitting in until you see some boiling action. you should now have a constant stream of condensed and cooled hexane flowing into your recieving jar.
Reduce heat while maintaining hexane boiling (the water doesnt have to boil!!!) and wait until there is just enough hexane left to keep it a liquid. Depending on how much you are recovering the Ice may need to be topped off half way through. Poor that last bit onto a pyrex plate and put a fan on it. Your seconds from smokin HONEY!

The quality is not top, those damn roches, dont use them. got ash and maybe too much tars and sheight. a little blacker than it should be but good none the less!.

Well thats about it, any thoughts, questions, trials and tribulations, please ask.

and by the way,
STOP WASTING BUTANE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**bobbooty** · 02-26-2004, 02:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stickeyfinger

The quality is not top, those damn roches, dont use them. got ash and maybe too much tars and sheight. a little blacker than it should be but good none the less!.

interesting. what would happen if i used already screened (kif) or bubblehash as my starting material for hash oil? if it would work, what ratios do i use? (material to hexane)

stickeyfinger · 02-26-2004, 08:48 AM

hey bobbooty,

I would imagine that the bubblehash would produce an equivilant product, the biggest difference would be yield. I got maybe 2-3 grams of honey out of 2-3 OZ of shake. I would guess closer to 1/2 oz honeyoil output per OZ of bubblehash (havent tried this, would you want to even do this?? bubblehash is pretty smooth as it is).

I would think this process would be better used to ectract all the goodies from the sheight used to make the bubblehash!

with the bubble hash you might end up saturating the hexane and require 2 extractions on the same material. I would start using equal amount hexane and BH but do two washes. If the second wash produces than you know the first wash was saturated. then next time go 2X hex and 1X BH.

I wish I had some bublehash to try this to, I would let you know! Hope that helped

IonAccel · 02-27-2004, 09:21 PM

...what is honey oil supposed to smell like?

I remember from "childhood" that it didn't smell like bud.

Nor does the stuff I have just finished evaporating.

Now I know it is pure. And the chems I was using were tested by me beforehand to be "no residue". And the label claims that is residue free.

But i love the looks of it. Kinda dark because some of the the non-hexane ingredients included methanol....which probably leached some greeen outta the leaves.

stickeyfinger · 02-28-2004, 10:08 AM

Ive been thinking for 10 mins now of how to describe the taste of honey oil.................. ummm ..... not sure how to start

It kinda tastes like smooth bubblehash, or hippy-crack, but not the same. Smooth is the operative word. You can take a hoot, little to no burn on the lungs, and realize while your holding your breath that you took too big of hoot and spit it out. No solevent taste/smell, nice white ash left in the bowl when done and it should bubble like bubblehash when smoked.

This is a good time to mention to not place flame directly to your oil! "Freebase" it or smoke in a vaporizer. Direct flame will destroy many caniboids before you can use them! Direct flame will also burn any unwanted sheight in the oil thus making you inhale it.

Hope that helps, sorry to hear about the methanol mixed with your hex. This would most definately strip out some tars and chlorophyll.

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