| | #101 | ||
| 'pot poet outlaw' ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | what i am thinking of doing is having the motherland in veg under cfl, fairyland flowering. when fairyland has flowered i move 1000 from there to motherland, switch that to flower, few flouros in fairyland to go veg. here's skunkoid, i thought she would sulk but she seems ok about it. i can always flick the tops up if its an issue for her, depends how congested laterals get. that's freakshow being giben a little support with bamboo piece sticking up. mervine pic 2 got badly burnt, but super tough sativa, see what happens.having a lot of fun Scrub, pic 3 is queen, she has been pinned horizontal till she hit mesh on wall, hooked her under and top just starting to catch laterals. they have been spread apart gradually with sticks till growing and woodier can't wait to get motherland up again. have some nice seedlings. just not facilities lol nigel
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nigel For This Useful Post: | scrub (05-27-2009) |
| | #102 | ||
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Thanks for the post, Nigel. 'Stick Training' in the 'Fridge Conspiracy'. The photos show the three plants that we trained in the Vegetation cabinet. They show the effect of transplant. But, they also show the effect of Overlap During Training.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (05-30-2009) |
| | #103 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | i am up close and personal with my plants. Directing things with sticks has taught me a lot about how the plants respond to light; is so adjustable that tonight with moving 2 sticks, i turned a whole cola on its back to fill out the side. I guess the shock of transplant would be more pronounced in water, water to air to water would be 3 temperature fluctuations? Even if you match the temp of the water you are going into, to the temp you are coming out of; the act of putting the plant in will throw it out? soil to soil is more inert and stable. I am trying to overcome the problem of light deprivation by spreading the branches, but it's a hard balance. You try for multiple bud sites in a small space; but you have to space them so they do not fight. we live and learn; we can always smoke our mistakes. lol nigel
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to nigel For This Useful Post: | Dr. Funkenstein (06-02-2009), scrub (05-30-2009) |
| | #104 | ||
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... Photos taken with camera Source Light set to Tungsten.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (06-07-2009) |
| | #105 | ||
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I was wondering, what is the densest packing of buds possible? That is, if I had perfect distribution what would the maximum plant density be? I was thinking maybe one bud per 3 in x 3 in square? Could it be denser, say, every 1 in x 1 in square? I can muster up approximately 13 x 6 squares that are about 3 in x 3 in. That is 78 buds in a plane. If I could fill each square with a branch then cut all remaining branches (suckers) I might get the best use of space. So, I'm trying that. Starting from the right and working to the left I separated six branches with a training stick. There are three or four squares on the right that are missing a branch. I can see a couple of branches that I can direct to fill these with a little more vegetation time. There are about ten missing squares on the left. I see less opportunity for filling these but I will try.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (06-07-2009) |
| | #106 | ||
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Originally the Peak19 in the example grow cabinet was trained to the right. I find it easier to manage the branches if I train an individual plant in only one general direction. The Big Bud clone at the front right of the cabinet is BB1. I placed BB1 19" from the right of the cabinet. This was because BB1 had grown 19" to the side of the vegetation cabinet prior to transplant. I positioned the Back Big Bud clone (BB2) 19" from the left. I used the same measurement at BB1 because it was easy to do so. I did not measure it. I should have. BB2 was not as big as BB1. I should have positioned BB1 16" from cabinet side. Thus, the left side of the cabinet is sparse. To help fill the sparce left side, I decided to redirect one Peak19 branch to the left.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (06-07-2009) |
| | #107 | ||
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Now that most of the 13 x 6 squares have a branch, I've started to remove under canopy sucker sprouts, in the example three plants pictured. Added: Compare the top left and right in these photos to same for May 31 shown in post #104. Photos taken under HPS lighting with camera set to Tungsten light source.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (06-19-2009) |
| | #108 | ||
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... The same 24" Training Stick is used for both front-to-back and side-to-side training. The Training Sticks in the top row of photos that are parallel to the back of the cabinet are used for front-to-back training. These are firmly stuck in peg holes at the left and right cabinet side. They, sort of, meet in the center. This arrangement of pegging the Training Stick into a cabinet side has proven to be very useful. One capability that I like is that the pegged stick acts like a spring. This makes it easier to move branches and provides another method to apply tension training force. There are three training/support levels. The middle level is at the height that the plants were trained in the original Vegetation cabinet. Sticks at this level can be used for training or support. It is possible to adjust the height of the canopy by pulling branches down with sticks at the middle level. The bottom level provides counter force to training. The Peak19 at front left is so strong that I doubled the Support Sticks. The two clones are supported with one stick each. ...
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (06-19-2009) |
| | #109 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | and determined they are Scrub. I put some weights on some tops, next day, here's the tips pushing and lifting the weights.Likewise pegs and sticks reefed out of the ground. What is your criteria for what is a sucker and what is useful please? Is it position on the stem? size? Just wondering because i am gradually pruning out what i consider is going nowhere, concentrating energy to the tops. so curious as to what you consider redeemable. thanks. nigel
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nigel For This Useful Post: | scrub (06-19-2009) |
| | #110 | ||
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Hi, Nigel. I try to follow the standard ScrOG guidelines to 'Gradually trim away any branch below the canopy that will not reach the top.' I think that that is it. That would be something like this:
From first attempt at this to now, it's getting better all the time. Nothing will get you to Carnegie Hall faster than 'Practice, practice, practice.'
__________________ Thank you GardensCure community! Journal Building the Cabinet Training Details Building a Dryer Last edited by scrub; 06-19-2009 at 01:17 PM.. | ||
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