| | #131 | ||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (08-05-2009) |
| | #132 | ||
| 'pot poet outlaw' ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Going to be wall to wall bud. lol You would have to relax the training to let the colas find thier own space. How do the buds handle being that close together? Is air circulation or mold an issue? I am off to tinker, will drop back with a scrog shot later. lol nigel
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nigel For This Useful Post: | scrub (08-06-2009) |
| | #133 | ||
| 'pot poet outlaw' ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | how this will end up i do not now, but 9 plants in total, 3 vertical and one horizontal screen. i am thinking that i can put a second layer of control by using the squares either side of the cage, for a line of horizontal sticks, front to back. should be fun. lol nigel
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nigel For This Useful Post: | scrub (08-06-2009) |
| | #134 | |||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
I have a strong impulse to release training. I go through the cabinet twisting the sticks between thumb and forefinger. If the stick is loose, I pull it. If the stick is tight, I check to see what would happen if I release it. In this case, I decided to release all. I then rummaged through the branches from above and from below. I removed five or so dead leaves that had been covered. I noticed that deep down at the right some branches were a slight, light-starved green. As the readers may recall, I trimmed fan leaves on the right to a lesser extent than those on the left. A day after removing all training I could see that all branches are a nice deep green. Or maybe I'm just projecting. I don't see any mold. From that I will assume that air circulation is sufficient. I think that the Peak19 is taking the training and closeness very well. The Peak19 is the plant in the center. This strain is described as bushy with a grow height of only 1 meter. The Big Bud clones are not producing as much as I would hope. This could be due to many things including the affect of the Peak19 nearby. That would be an affect of training. If due to training it means to me that I have to create a better method of allocating space on the canopy. Possible Future Fix To Avoid Any Plant Overshadowing Any Other: Visually mark on the canopy a rectangle for each plant and stick to it. Totally avoid training any plant over any other. I tried various approaches to minimize overlap. However, as the grow progressed, I favored the biggest plant and allowed it to fill gaps left by others. This resulted in the biggest getting bigger and the smallest, staying smaller.
__________________ Thank you GardensCure community! Journal Building the Cabinet Training Details Building a Dryer Last edited by scrub; 08-06-2009 at 05:19 PM.. | |||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (08-15-2009) |
| | #135 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | the plants are thier own worst enemies; shade themselves out. lol I think your on the right track with a plan, branch / square. Filling the space efficiently, but leaving space for mj to grow well. Sorry to hear bigbud is underperforming, but then the plants never grow quite as well as we want do they? lol nigel
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nigel For This Useful Post: | scrub (08-07-2009) |
| | #136 | ||
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The top of the plant is marked with a red star in one of the photos. The inset diagram in that photo was first seen in Post #2 when describing the method.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to scrub For This Useful Post: | nigel (08-15-2009) |
| | #137 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hey scrub, sorry I got here late as I don't browse the different forums too often. I was considering topping my plants if they stretch too much, but after getting a response from bluecheese on the subject, I think I might need to consider training the top of the plants if they get too tall. Any ideas on training after the plants are three feet tall? | ||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Them For This Useful Post: | nigel (08-18-2009) |
| | #138 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I haven't been happy with the results of topping either,Them. My first recommendation is to post your situation here in the Training forum. You'll get real good ideas. For my part, I continue to redirect branches on my 39" tall plant at flower day 63. For mature plants, I like to use the term 'redirect branches.' At this point in time the basic plant structure has been defined and 'training' becomes less likely. That said, I think that it is a good thing to redirect branches in any way you see fit to maximize light distribution or to reduce height. I think that you have two basic choices. These are to bend or to break the tall branch. LST provides a great force / counter force mechanism to bend the plant. I think the following will work but I recommend that you check the LST threads. Test the bend-ability of the branch you must redirect.
Supercropping provides a method that can be used to reduce the vertical height of a branch. The method is to break the fibrous internal structure of the branch to allow it to bend. This, in my opinion, is extreme. Look for supercropping threads. I believe that the supercroppers take the thumb and first finger to break the internal, fibrous cell structure of the plant. This allows it to bend. It will need to be supported after supercropping. Take care to avoid damaging or breaking the branch further. We want to keep fluids passing through the damaged area. I've tried this once. It works.
__________________ Thank you GardensCure community! Journal Building the Cabinet Training Details Building a Dryer Last edited by scrub; 08-18-2009 at 04:32 PM.. | ||
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| | #139 | ||
| 'pot poet outlaw' ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | and found the calloused lumps it left, seemed to restrict nutrient flow scrub. i used topping to slow some plants down Them, which is what it is good for. in the time it takes 2 tips to grow out of the cut, how many internodes can an unmolested tip grow? my guess to that would be at least 2, giving you 4 secondary shoots and the main shoot. LST and holding the growing tip further from the light, than lower shooting points on the plants is the go, works great. People get the idea that it is about height, LST is strictly up and down vertically, but it is actually distance from the light, so the principle can be used horizontally on a wall espalier. Waveguide showed us an interesting one he called 'addling', where one gently bends the plant over semisupercroppping, very gently pinching and bending allong stem to make a bow. The plant will lift up, but remains partially bent, which you reinforce with an odd 'touch up' every few days. I find that with this and LST, after a bit i can back off and the weight of the leaves / buds then holds the plant down by itself. Scrub's is the bees knees but, a grow system with maximum control in a small space, producing maximum yield. I think such a system is the way of the future, everyone could have one as part of thier entertainment unit, Many happy hours of the family 'tinkering' thier plants. Good to see you out and about Them, i have peeked in your window of your place. It is very clever what you and Scrub do with water, it is a medium i would like to try in the future. this is yvetta after her haircut. lol nigel
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| | #140 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Bending makes sense. Thanks, Them and Nigel.
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