| | #12 | ||
| Cabinet Gardener ![]() Join Date: Jan 2001
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Yes, if training is forcing the plants to do something that they would not otherwise do. On-the-other-hand, if I reward them with more light and more space then maybe the trade-off has a mutual benefit.
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| | #13 | ||
| Low-rent mystic ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: dirac's ocean
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Damn! And here I thought this was a family site...not a tawdry, BSDM site! Actually, thanks for this informative tutorial!!
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| | #14 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The five clones in Post #4 now look like this...
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| | #15 | ||
| Sprout Join Date: Jan 2009
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![]() | Very nteresting- I like the idea but I reckon you are using up a far amount of space with your sticks however. This will waste potential space for buds and at the very least seems like it hampers air flow. I prefer a simple thin trellis and LST- I wonder if you might find sticks that are less volumous? | ||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to oldhat For This Useful Post: | scrub (01-02-2009) |
| | #16 | ||
| Cabinet Gardener ![]() Join Date: Jan 2001
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Thanks for the questions, oldhat. I keep light blocking in mind as I use the sticks. I adjust branches and leaves and, usually, place sticks at least three inches below a growing tip. The training sticks are 1/4" diameter and the separator sticks are 3/8". I would use smaller diameter sticks if available. I don't believe these sticks cast much of a shadow. Sticks are placed below the growing tip and do not shadow the plants. How much shadow could they cast? The two or three separator sticks are negligible. At the very most there is one 1/4" training stick per 1.5" link. That would be at most 1/6 of the area that could potentially be blocked or shadowed. That might be significant if all the sticks were placed and if they were placed above the growing area. All sticks are not placed. Most are placed below the growing tips. Most of the sticks from the first (lower) training level are gone. They cast no shadow. Many of the sticks at the top level could be removed as they were placed for 'fine tuning' and to emphasize the screen nature of the training environment. Here are some ideas for smaller diameter sticks:
Your questions are good and well taken. I keep light blocking in mind as I train. I suggest that one use all sticks sparingly. I use more than necessary because I am demonstrating and experimenting. And, frankly, don't believe they block significant light. Thanks again for the questions.
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| | #17 | ||
| 'pot poet outlaw' ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Is it possible to use supplementary lighting from side of canopy, to light up understorey and backs of sticks Scrub? Scenario being, plants primary growth is towards main light source; but flouros placed along either side of section under bondage. Light up laterals and give them encouragement to lengthen sideways. Allow introduction of a secondary horizontal growth; to fill up gaps left by training of primary vertival growth? Chain and sticks is a beautiful concept, thanks nigel | ||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nigel For This Useful Post: | scrub (01-09-2009) |
| | #18 | ||
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I'm sure it is possible, nigel, to place lights on the side. I actually tried a little side lighting once. I had coincidental plant health problems. As a reaction, un-supported by any direct evidence, I removed the side lighting. My main concern with side lighting is that one has to keep some distance between light and plant. And the lights take up some physical space. If one adds a modest 3 inches for light separation and another 3 inches for the lamps, you lose six inches of grow space on each side of the cabinet. That is 1 foot out of 4 spent for side lighting. To avoid the loss of grow space, I guess one could place the lights under the canopy. I have not tried that. I think that if I meet the training objective I eliminate any need for side lighting. The training objective is to maximize the effeciency of the top lighting.
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| | #19 | |||
| Senior Gardener Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: On a journey through space and time
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
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| | #20 | ||
| 'pot poet outlaw' ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Reactions are a good thing, lol, sometimes you have to lower the variables to isolate the problem. I will keep thinking and planning, have a few ideas on how to incorporate the stick and chains concept, into my grows. Just have to finish the projects i am on. lol Appreciate your input, will post pics when my ideas are real. Best wishes nigel | ||
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