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Go Back   The Garden's Cure > Botanical References > The Reference Library > The Great Hall of Threads > Soils
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Old 06-20-2002, 10:09 AM   #11
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organic is starting to flower.organic is starting to flower.organic is starting to flower.
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My experience with compost has been that 30% is probably a little bit too much, due to its extraordinary water-holding capabilities. (Some kinds of compost can hold up to 190% of its weight in water!) When I grew in a 30% mix, I had overwatering problems until the plants got to be about flowering size, but from then on it was fine.

Since the primary benefit from compost is the introduction of beneficial soil biota, rather than its fertilizer value, my suggestion is to use at a rate of 10-20% of the mix, with the amount adjusted for the percentage of worm castings if you're also using those. I.e., if you are using both, you will probably want to keep the combined percentage around 30%, and definitely no higher than 40% which is probably too much as well. As most of us have learned, there is such a thing as too much of a good thing.

Ion, I don't think there is a problem pulling the attributes of the cocoa mulch from that page, so I've gone ahead and done so. The majority of their claims apply to any kind of mulch so I tried to include the attributes that are more unique to the particular product.

Cocoa Mulch
Hulls from the cocoa bean that have been treated to remove oils; can be used as ground cover, soil conditioner and fertilizer. Its pH is 5.4 and has a fertility of N.P.K. 2-0.2-3. For the outdoor grower, the texture of Cocoa Mulch may reduce damage to plants by deterring slugs and snails, and is also reputed to deter cats and deer.
The proteins in cocoa mulch help break down the shell into humus which in turn stimulates the production of soil bacteria. Cocoa Mulch will add organic matter to your soil as it decomposes.


Keep them definitions rollin' in folks, once we get a critical mass of them I will consolidate them into a handy package. I am aiming for this stuff to all be added to the grow guides eventually.

O
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Old 06-21-2002, 10:17 PM   #12
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And some more...
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Horticultural Charcoal
Absorbs oils, salts and other impurities from the soil; encourages air circulation at the root level, and absorbs odors, so may help to offset some of the more fragrant organic ferts like fish emulsion. Absorbs water and offers some help minimizing damage from overwatering and overfertilizing (activated charcoal is used to clean up pesticide spills).

Coco Coir
The shredded remnants of coconut husks. Holds approximately 8 times its weight in water, while providing excellent aeration. Contains rooting hormones, protects plants from bacterial and fungal infestations, and stores and releases nutrients over extended periods of time. Use as a pH-neutral substitute to peat moss; coco coir is considered a renewable resource as opposed to peat, which is technically renewable but in practice is not.
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Old 06-23-2002, 01:31 PM   #13
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vermucilate
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hey what does vermucilate look like? i think i might of mistaken it for perlite, i always thought verm was the white stuff? is verm tan or light brown? see i use my friends moms supplies and she doesnt have it in bags their all in tubs so i need help identifying which is which.
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Old 06-23-2002, 03:50 PM   #14
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Perlite = white.
Vermiculite = tanish grey.
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Old 06-23-2002, 05:09 PM   #15
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natural soil
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I have a huge pine tree in my backyard and there is a section where all the dead pine needles build up and the soil under that is rich, fertle, and dark. I don't think many people have pine trees but thats one spot id go to start a mix of soil.
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Old 06-24-2002, 10:02 PM   #16
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Soil Characteristics
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Clay soils have 25 percent + clay particles and are usually wet and sticky. Soils with less than 8% clay are clasified as either silt or sandy soil depending on wether theres more silt or sand. Muck is formed where wet acid conditions prevent complete decomposition of all organic matter which remains on the top of the soil. Alkaline soil normally drains freely and organic matter put into it decomposes fast.

Sandy Soil A dry light free draining soil easy to work but basically infertile.

Muck Rich in organic matter is dark and moisture retentive.

Clay A heavy slow draining soil usually with a high nutrient value.

Alkaline Soil Pale shallow and stony this soil is free draining and moderately fertile.

Silt Silt is resonably moisture retentive and fertile but compacts easily.

Adding compost, well rotted manure, or peat inproves the soil structure and helps to hold moisture in the soil.
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Old 06-24-2002, 10:18 PM   #17
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Soil Additives
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The choice of additives to use is dependant on the type of soil. Most may either be added to the surface or added into the soil. Organic material like animal manure and compost provides valuabe nutrients. Animal manure also encourages earth worms which is also great.

A light sandy soil may be improved by forking in a layer of heavy clay rich topsoil.The additions of grit or sharp sand will lighten clay soils.Always add perlite.

On compacted soil and clay soil add manure compost, and/or lime to better its structure by incouraging crumb formation.Always add perlite.

On silt add small amounts of clay to better soil structure and add manure compost, peat and other organic materials to encourage crumb formation.Always add perlite

The amound of additive to add depends on the condition of the soil. A good rule of thumb to add 4 inches of additives, And to always add Perlite!!
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Old 06-26-2002, 11:25 PM   #18
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Question LOWER PH!?!
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Im only growing 1 plant and I have a planter that hold about 5 - 7 gallons of dirt I dont want to worry about getting root bound.. My PH is around 8 or so, and thats HIGHLY Alcaline. How do I lower the PH and ADD Nitrogen cause my plant is small and just entering veg state and is growing outside in about 8 hours direct sunlight, and 3 not direct... and the rest in total darkness until the next morning and I move "her" out there.

I heard that if I add :
4 parts coffee ground
1 part blood meal

This would not only lower my PH but add Nitrogen to my mix...

How much of each do I add to my soil? In cups or something please I need that cause I am just going to add the amounts and mix, I dont need to put the plant into the large pot for sometime I think but I want it to be ready... I know I need a lil more Perlite and perhaps some vermaculite...
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Old 06-26-2002, 11:56 PM   #19
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Please don't post questions not related to the subject on to the end of an existing thread. If you have a new question, post a new thread - but in this case, this subject is being covered in the organics section right now, so head on over there and do some reading. (it's OK to post to the end of that thread.)

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Old 11-12-2002, 10:00 PM   #20
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Perlite is white and rocky.

Vermiculite is light brown and spongy like material.
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