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... if you don't pull it over far enough, the side branches wont fill out. Still trying to keep an even canopy. I'll let one or two tips get about 2 inches above the rest ... these are the next tops to be tied. As the tops are bent over, it causes a hormone in the plant to be released ONLY if the top is tied lower that the highest point on the branch. Just 'spreading' them doesn't work as well as actually tying them down. In this pic, the upper branch was just released after being tied for 7 days. In it's place went the branch that had become the tallest point of the plant (2" taller than anything else). Now, the highest (no pun intended) top is BELOW the other tops. Now it'll produce the homones needed and to make the side branches grow, instead of the top. That's a pretty thick main stem for 3 weeks ... it will be over an inch wide at harvest time.
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| | #12 | ||
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... is shown in this pic. One thing I have learned, after some trial and error, is that it's easier to manage the main stem if it is offset from the center of the bucket. This will allow you to tie it down across the rim of the bucket and let you pack those grow shoots together very tightly. When I transplant, they go into the 5gal at a 45 degree angle. The result is that the plant is leaning already. Some plants will be trained to keep leaning in a certain direction (to fill the corners of the room) while others are encourged into (random) openings in the canopy where nothing has grown yet. You want every INCH of your light being used by plant matter ... not the carpet or whatever.
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| | #13 | ||
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You can see it much better in this pic ... Plus, a thumbs up from our sponsor. ME!
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| | #14 | ||
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I wanted to show this pic because it's almost time to prune the bottom of this plant. Normally, I'll wait until the fourth week to remove all growth 3-4 inches from the top of the soil. This will promote top growth and these little shoots will clog airflow under the plant, leading to mold and mildew under the canopy.
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| | #15 | ||
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... until 3 weeks before harvest and then release the pressure. Watch those buds swell! If everything grows right, you should have a 30" plant that will produce over 300 grams dry weight. I've had single plants produce over a pound of cured buds. This one is a corner plant. They tend to yield a little less than ones that dominate the center of the canopy. I usually have 7 or 8 plants in a 7x7 area. A typical yield for 7x7 is around 5 lbs. Supercrop!
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| | #16 | ||
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No topping.
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | So delta.. for the first week or 2 of growth, you leave the plant to grow until its like 4 inches.. then you step in and bend it over, making the meristematic tip no longer the high point of the plant.. so the plant grows tips from the nodes, without needing to top the plant.. correct? and once these branches have grown out a bit, you bend these ones over aswell, and you continue on and on until ya got a nice even canopy.. thats what i got from this thread, and it looks wonderful. Those white fluffy buds make me wanna poop myself.. 5 pounds from 7 plants. wow. Im surprised you didnt get to this sooner! peace oh and by the way.. i've got a few plants that are just about 6 inches.. time to go bend em up! i mean down. | ||
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| | #18 | |||
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Although, I might wait until the plant is a little bigger than 4" to start training. Not necessarily, though. It depends on how vigorous the plant is. Or more actually, how healthy and large the root system is. Once I'm sure it can handle the training, I begin. Also, I'll say it again, but some times I will release some of the oldest tie downs (anchors) to let them catch up with the younger growth. Then, re-tie them later or just move the current anchor and/or release the pressure a little. I always release almost all of the tie down achors once the 'stretch' is over (about the last 3-4 weeks of flower) and by this time, the plants have taken on the new shape and won't revert back (but, I've left stem wires on too long and they get 'grown over' some times ... this can't be good). Maintain an even canopy, yes, that's one of the primary objectives. No, I don't top at all because I have proven (to myself) that a topped plant will just grow more slowly than one that isn't topped (the cut plant has to heal and goes through shock for about a week). Yield is not greater on the plants I've topped. So, basically, I believe (and theororize, Zero Stress Theory) an untopped plant lives a less stressful life and is more robust, overall. My experiments speak (to me) for themselves. Topped plants grow slower. Untopped plants grow faster. And, Yes, I maintained controls. Not to mention, untopped colas are frequently over 12 inches long. As always, my advice is to experiment for yourself. Oh, and don't believe the hype. Knowledge is power. All of that .... Plus, read, read, read Bonzai! (Great reading, too!) Oh, and those buds weren't 'fluffy' ... rather, very dense. Dry, they're like a hardwood billyclub. They'll knock you out, just the same, too!
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