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Go Back   The Garden's Cure > Botanical References > The Reference Library > The Great Hall of Threads > Training: ScrOG/SOG, Supercropping, etc
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Old 12-12-2003, 04:20 PM   #71
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A quick question
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Sorry if this is a stupid question, I do not intend it to be. It seems as though all of my shoots are growing at about the same rate and are about the same hieght; that is besides the ones lower on the plant. I am wondering if I am creating too much stress on the plant by pulling so many of these shoots over at once. Should I be training these a few shoots at a time or am I just being paranoid. Thanks, gd
By the way, this is some fun sh*t! Thanks for the awesome thread.
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Old 12-29-2003, 09:09 AM   #72
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Dear Greendreams
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From my friends experience you can train the plant all at once without adverse affects. My friend recently bent her plants as described below.
Plant is roughly 7-9 nodes tall or about 2-3 inches when flowering began. Let the plant grow until the tip could hang over the rim of a 10 inch pot. Got a thin piece of nylon or whatever and gently tied her all the way down. Now we are talking a plant that is 2 inches tall and in full bloom. At about 8 weeks now and the buds just now are starting to dense up with about 50 percent of the hairs turning. Looking at more than an oz a plant of nothin but bud. Plan on harvesting in stages. Take ripe buds and let lower ones grow a week or so longer. Anyhow, not my first rodeo so not worried.

Monday mornin and I have to go in to work. Later
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Old 12-29-2003, 10:30 AM   #73
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yes, you can train it all at once...or as needed. i usually start training by the 5th-7th nodes.
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:51 PM   #74
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I have a question about flushing. If you were using dirt and you put you the pot completly submerged under water doesn't the dirt start to desolve away? If it does do you just try to pack new dirt into the holes and on the top?
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Old 12-31-2003, 11:24 AM   #75
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Chronic-Tonic: Love the name...


If you flush and submerged it under water. Meaning in a tank completely under water. The dirt will break up and will float away into your tank. But if you mean filling it to the top of the bucket and let it seep through the soil. It well break up the soil. But just move it around. And IMO> It causes more Oxygen to get to the roots...
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Old 12-31-2003, 01:31 PM   #76
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Ok i read the section about flushing again. I misunderstood what you meant my submerge "it" under water I thought "it" was the whole pot for 10 minutes, but here come another question. These holes that you made in the pot are they at the bottom or more in the middle? Also i just want to make sure i have this all worked out before i try it. So if you are only submerging the holes under water and keeping the top of the pot above water does that water get soaked up to the top? Also how big are these holes? If you have a pot will drain holes already in the bottom would they work?

Thanks, i am glad you like my name
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Old 12-31-2003, 02:03 PM   #77
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I get a quarter inch drill bit and drill lots of holes. On the bottom I make huge holes. On the corner of the bucket from the L section.. I drill into at a angle Hard to explain. But water gets locked in the edge of the bucket. That's why when you tilt to the left or the right more water will come out... Plus pressure. But besides that. I drill holes at least 6 inches above those. All the way around the bucket. So that I can see how moist it is down there. And more oxygen. Also more drainage. You can't go too crazy on hole punching. The last thing you want is soggy soil... Hope that helps.. If I make sense in my stoned state.
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Old 01-12-2004, 09:01 PM   #78
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This is definitely one of my favorite threads! Great job mMv!!!

I'm a fluorescent, micro grower, so training and LST techniques like this are essential for me. One question: does the relatively weaker light of fluorescents mean that I have to be careful about how much training I do? I know I've got a bad habit of leaving the ties on (I use twist-tie like you get in packages of garbage or refrigerator storage bags and they work great) and not taking them off after I've got the plant to open up. But it also seems that, after awhile, the plants respond a lot less to training (meaning, they don't grow nearly as vigorously).

Is that because of leaving other ties on, the fluorescents, or something else I'm not thinking of? I'll always LST to take advantage of my small space. But I don't want to limit my yields too much (at least, not any more than using fluorescents does!) ...
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Old 01-13-2004, 09:43 AM   #79
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Sounds like root bound. When training. Your root system takes off. For you are creating a bigger plant. The root system too is being inlarged. Also could be lack of nutes if you notice purpling on the new growth stem. Or under leaves in the vains into the fingers. Or it could be over or under watering. And\ or Lack of light.
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Old 01-26-2004, 08:13 AM   #80
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myMUSICveins is budding up nicely.myMUSICveins is budding up nicely.myMUSICveins is budding up nicely.myMUSICveins is budding up nicely.
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i just had a question about how u did your lst training. i understand it to be that u tie the main stock down in like 7 day intervals. My question is about the other branches that u tie inorder to max out your light. Do u keep those tied for 7 day intervals as well or what?
7-day intervals? I'm not sure what you mean by that. I let them loose usually after a flush, or safers soap spray down. Also, I would let them loose if they are, or have been over trained. You have to learn to read them. If they don’t seem to be growing much and the light is close, and the growing space feels congested, then you might want to untie and raise the light and let her grow and stretch for a bit until she’s aired out some to be eventually tied down again. It kind of depends also on your expectations of size and turn around time.
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hey great thread thanks for the info very inspiraring
just a quick Q how big was the plant when done like the dementions of it so high so wide???
As large as you let it get. When going from veging to flowering expect the plant to double to triple her size. Mine personally, that grow? That closet must have been 5ftx3 ft or so. ::shrugs:: that was a long time ago.
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I was told to do a search for LST bysome 1 with more experience than me since i have none. Would you recommend training for a first grow and is there a certain strain that works best for this type of growing.
No, probably not. id learn how to grow a little first, in general. take it easy and slow, learn. Then, i would attempt it later, with a good strain maybe training.
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Question isss: Following this LST method closely, what sort of yield could be expected with a 70W HPS? I know it would depend on veg and flower time so just for example:
-4weeks Veg
-7Weeks Flower
Just a 70W HPS? Not much. Would also greatly depend on the strain. Id say to get a 400W MH and train a strain that’s heavy indica, doesn’t like to stretch much, and fan her out. MH makes little heat, so you can get the light pretty close. The 70W HPS would just be gravy on top of the MH. But, average strain, just 70watt MH (growing ability? type of nutes?) 4 weeks veg, 7 weeks flower. Maybe a half an oz dried?
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I have a question about flushing. If you were using dirt and you put you the pot completly submerged under water doesn't the dirt start to desolve away? If it does do you just try to pack new dirt into the holes and on the top?
Ok, First off, it really depends a lot on your soil mix. The soil should be pretty light and airy. A lot of perlite, maybe 40% I usually put big rocks at all the corners of the bucket where the large holes are, so the soil doesn’t get clogged or pour out.

Maybe 1-2 mins submerged is enough. I don’t dunk the pot all the way under so the water is above the top of the soil. But I do stick it in deep enough so that after you sit and watch her for a minute you then see the top of the soil get heavily saturated in the water anyhow. Repeat dunk process until the water is clear coming out of the bottom when you lift the put out to let the water drain out.
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I'm a fluorescent, micro grower, so training and LST techniques like this are essential for me. One question: does the relatively weaker light of fluorescents mean that I have to be careful about how much training I do? I know I've got a bad habit of leaving the ties on (I use twist-tie like you get in packages of garbage or refrigerator storage bags and they work great) and not taking them off after I've got the plant to open up. But it also seems that, after awhile, the plants respond a lot less to training (meaning, they don't grow nearly as vigorously).

Is that because of leaving other ties on, the fluorescents, or something else I'm not thinking of? I'll always LST to take advantage of my small space. But I don't want to limit my yields too much (at least, not any more than using fluorescents does!)
It's the flo's. They don’t provide many lumens. You need to have the plant tips within an inch or two of the flo's (they don't create any heat.) With flo's I would try to have as little vertical and as much horizontal as possibly. I'd say to keep the flo's where they are, just add a 250W HPS above them, a foot or so above the flo's. Make sure your setup can support the added heat the HPS create. Good luck!
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